Most dispensaries are filled with frames that have eyewires designed into every shape and size imaginable. But, there's something new for frame buyers to consider. Milled profiles give a flattened frame appearance, offering unique, distinctive styling and some functional advantages, too.

TECHNICALLY SPEAKING

Spools of eyewire are used to manufacture many metal frames in a range of shapes and sizes. With milled profiles, manufacturers use special tools to mill away, or remove, metal from a sheet or hunk of metal into a desired shape. The result is a frame with a flattened appearance and a brushed or burnished finish. Depending on the type of tool used, it can be formed into an endless combination of shapes. Milling can be done with most metals--monel, stainless, titanium, and others. But the material used often dictates the cost. For instance, since titanium is harder than most materials, it's more labor intensive to mill and requires different tools, hence raising the cost.

Another approach used to get this same flattened effect is laser cutting, in which frame specifications are programmed into a computer that guides the laser in cutting metal. "Laser cutting is generally reserved for use in the making of stainless steel frames," explains Dave Chute, executive vice president of Marchon Eyewear. "Laser cutting also requires a more laborious finishing or polishing process because the starting surface of the sheet metal is not treated. As a result, a brushed/burnished finish is generally applied to most laser-cut frames to hide imperfections."

Another use of lasers is to engrave logos and unique designs.

BUYER BEWARE

Since both milling and laser cutting are labor intensive and quite expensive, frames made this way are generally seen in the high-end market. "It's gives a very distinctive, sophisticated look," says Robert Marc, owner of Manhattan-based Robert Marc Opticians. "More mainstream manufacturers will eventually start using this process, but for now it's a very specialized process."

When looking to include milled or laser-cut metals in their frame assortments, buyers must be careful not to confuse them with frames made with the stamping process, which is more mainstream. While stamped frames also give a flattened appearance, the process requires that a mold be made. "Once the mold is created, frames can be made with good precision and speed and require significantly less finishing," explains Chute. The key difference is that stamped frames can be mass produced.

DISTINGUISHING FACTORS

The best way to tell the difference is by price. "From a cost standpoint," adds Chute, "laser-cut frames are more expensive, but they can be run in smaller quantities more economically as there is no tooling expense."

Another distinguishing factor is that milled and laser-cut metals generally have a more dull or brushed finish, while stamped frames can be polished to a shiny finish.

All three frame types--laser cut, milled profiles, and stamped--are a great option for patients with high prescriptions. Their flattened appearance allows for back lens mounts, which hide thick lens edges.

Also, since these frames are made from sheets or blocks of metal, they all have one-piece construction fronts, eliminating soldering generally required on bridges and end-pieces. This ensures less frame breakage.

According to Marc, the biggest advantage to milled profiles is their unique design. "No two frames are designed alike," he says. For your fashion-forward consumers, that's a quality worth paying for.  FB