Just as it's best to know which food items you're going to order before you get to the drive-thru window, it's best to have a clear frame-buying strategy for your dispensary before you start stocking the boards. A frame buyer's decisions must be carefully planned because the wrong choices can lead to dead inventory just as quickly as greasy burgers and fries can lead to indigestion.

One of the first basic questions a frame buyer has to decide is whether to buy deep within just a few collections, or to buy broad from a larger variety of lines.

EVERYTHING ON THE MENU

Mello Thompson, the owner of Image Optical, a high-end optical shop in Nashville, Tenn., says she buys deep and broad. Why?

"Because when I look at other successful retailers...the Targets and the Wal-Marts for example...those are the retailers with the most merchandise and they have an eye for what will be new," she says. "So, I buy really deep and wide, and make sure that I don't order frames that my customers aren't going to buy."

Thompson says she will buy 80 pieces of a line she believes in, however, she will buy only 12 or so pieces from a smaller specialty line.

In order to keep her inventory fresh, Thompson will not reorder the same items once they sell out. "I always buy new. Fashion moves, and if we are going to be considered a fashion industry, we have to let the old go away," she insists.

The only exceptions are several pairs of basic staples that remain popular with her clientele. "A few are like a great pair of Levi's. They never go out of style."

Linda Cohen, the owner of Eye Design in New Jersey, agrees with buying deep in several major lines. "I think it's easier to be aware of all aspects of that line, so then you are in a better position to advise your customers," she says. "Also [if you buy deep into a line] you become more familiar with the product and you'll get more loyalty from the company."

Relationships with vendors play a significant part of Karen Simmons's frame buying, as well. The manager of Beach Drive Optical in St. Petersburg, Fla. says she prefers to work with just several established companies.

"I will try new companies, but it depends on the quality and the professionalism. Some companies have good product, but they don't show any stability."

ORDERING DEEP

Simmons too, likes to buy deep into just several lines. "I keep it down to about 10 vendors, and then I have my exclusives," she says. "If you have too many lines, it tends to get very confusing."

Cohen says one challenge the optical buyer has is to make an educated guess as to what the customer will want to buy. "I look for companies that will be supportive, and will sometimes exchange product out, so that it's easier for everyone involved."

She says frame returns are a realistic part of doing business, and "as long as you don't abuse the option, most companies will work with you. But, you shouldn't be irresponsible. It takes two."

Simmons also says she likes variety in her middle-to-high-end boutique. "I don't have the everyday styles. I want a different look, so I tend to go for some of the more extreme styles. If it doesn't sell, I can always exchange it out."

Randolph Scott, the owner of Art of Optics in Aspen, Colo., disagrees with buying deep.

Instead of loading up his shelves with inventory, Scott says he believes his vendors should have stock available, so he can reorder it when he needs to. "There's nothing worse than having dead inventory on a shelf," he says. Furthermore, Scott likes to sell from the two-dozen lines that he carries on his shelves. In fact, he says it's rare for his store to do special orders.

In each line, he carries about 100 frames, but, "I don't buy 50 styles in two of each color," he says. "I carry variety and I like to represent everything that's out there. Variety is what makes my store successful. There are always new collections coming in, so I don't try to sit well on a good seller. I'd rather show my customers a completely different frame."

Like Thompson, he admits that there are a few "main staples" that he will reorder, but he likes to watch the trends and know when it's time to move on.

Art of Optics is smack in the middle of tourist ski territory, so Scott needs to stay apprised of international trends as well. He does that by networking with vendors at various shows, and staying in contact with the high-end clothing stores--Prada, Gucci, and Chanel--in his town.

PLEASE DRIVE UP NOW...

Alyce Jones, the owner of Adair Optical, with two locations in Fort Worth, Texas, said she "definitely" does not buy broad. "I have found that if you buy broad, you will have all this inventory sitting there," he explains.

Jones says she likes to buy her frames on a quarterly basis. "Seasonal buying makes sense, because then we're able to keep up with the fashion industry," she says.

Part of Jones's philosophy is to buy what she likes, simply because, "If you don't like something, you won't sell it."

Simmons, however, says she will carry anything different--even if she doesn't like it--just to keep her inventory current.

"We do know there are certain colors out there that sell better than others. But, if a frame seems more interesting in a unique color, we'll go ahead and put it in, because it'll add spice to the line," she says.

"I see my reps about every eight to 10 weeks. Anything new that they'll have, I'll put in, whether I like it or not. It keeps the variety of the line looking fresh. But, I also will bring in some of the old pieces that have done well."

She says customers come into her store looking for something different, and she makes it a point to listen to them. "I listen to my patients and I stay on top of it every day. It's not what I like--it's what they like."

It's almost as important as deciding whether to get fries or onion rings with that shake. FB