CHAIN LINK

The number of consumers in the 55-plus age category in the United States is steadily growing. "It's a strong part of our business," says Paula Donnelly, director of frames management at LensCrafters. "Our stores are in a lot of areas where the mature market is a major focus, so therefore we do well with this category overall."

And thanks to the maturing of the Baby Boom generation, the popular demographic will soon enter that age range in large numbers. Thus, it is important for optical retailers to be aware of the wants and needs of this powerful and emerging group.

One of the main points made by the chains is that today's mature market does not want the same frames their parents wore. "We see a lot of older people wearing modern, younger frames," says Scott Silar, director of purchasing at Empire Vision Centers, which has 60 locations in New York and Pennsylvania. "I think it's great. The mature market does want to be more youthful, and they are showing that through their eyewear choices."

Not Their Father's Frame

While there is still a demand for conventional, larger-sized eyewear that could be considered traditionally "older," there is definitely a strong movement in the chain stores toward smaller, more youthful styling and brands.

"Some still want the huge big, old styles," says Alice Stephens, president of The Hour Glass, which has 10 locations in Florida. "But the majority of them don't want those kinds of frames anymore. Everybody feels younger today-even at that age-so they are looking for more youthful styles."

Most retailers agree that this consumer wants eyewear designs that enhance their appearance and add grace to their look. According to LensCrafters' Donnelly, a lot of today's mature women want ornament and detailing that is smaller and more modern than in the past-something that adds a touch of elegance, sophistication, and glamour as opposed to overstated boldness.

"And men want traditional shapes such as the navigator and aviator, but in more unisex and modern designs," she says. "This customer has traditionally been attracted to larger eyesizes like 54 and 58-now they are getting smaller.

This customer is also attracted to brand name products, unless budget is an issue for them. According to Empire Vision Center's Silar, mature women looks for brands like Elizabeth Arden, Sophia Loren, and Liz Claiborne. He also says that men in this age group tend to like Stetson and Gant-but "there are some hip 55-plus folks that are also buying the younger, more mainstream brands like Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani, and Polo Ralph Lauren."

"That customer is a lot more youthful than that 'the older generation' was 20 years ago," he says. "It really depends on what part of country you're in. In many areas you see people 50-plus and they're jogging and really active in general."

To cover its bases, however, Empire Vision Center does carry some of the more conservative aviators in large eyesizes. But in that kind of frame, they stock their own private label brand called Advantage Eyewear. "We try to cover the bread-and-butter bases in private label," says Silar. "And we fill in the fringe and specialty areas with brand names. We want to carry enough of a mix to satisfy everybody."

As for materials popular with this group, Donnelly says that titanium is important because they like the attributes of lighter weight and corrosion resistance. And while the plastic market-strong with this group in years past-has never gone away, Donnelly points out metals are still stronger overall. "The selection is just getting better out there as far as products available on the market for this customer," says Donnelly, who focuses specifically on buying product for this market for LensCrafters. "And that's good because it's a whole different type of clientele."

Chain retailers also point out that the availability of smaller progressive lenses is a real plus for the older customer who wishes to wear a smaller frame. "These sell really well for us," says Stephens.

And progressive lens sales, in general, are on the rise at optical chain stores. "We do a great job with progressive lenses," says Silar. "They are approaching 60 percent of multifocal sales at our stores and we are continuing to increase this."

Special Promotions

While most chains say their marketing strategies appeal to a wide range of customers, some target the senior market specifically. One retailer in particular has taken a very unique approach.

Our advertising is geared to that market," says The Hour Glass' Stephens. "But we also bought a bus which we renovated to conduct vision screenings-we painted it and have The Hour Glass name on one side and the doctor's [who conducts the exams on the bus] on the other side. It's getting our name out there. We send it around to senior centers where, sometimes, the residents cannot easily get out and get to an optical shop."

This concept has been so successful that The Hour Glass bus-which operates every weekday and some weekends-is now booked up for visits two to three months in advance, according to Stephens. She is also developing a coupon or promotional offer to hand out to those who've had exams at the bus so they are further compelled to buy their eyewear at an Hour Glass location.

"I thought my husband was crazy when he wanted to buy a bus and start this program," she says. "But it's really worked out well."

As for in-store strategies, many retailers say they utilize P-O-P materials for progressive lenses, but they do not typically separate frames. "To date we have not separated product for the mature market from the mix in our display," says Silar. "And I'm not sure that we would because it's so mixed what that consumer goes for.

You could have a 55-plus customer who wants a small unisex frame with a small progressive in it, and one who comes in minutes later and chooses a large aviator with-God forbid!-a flattop."

In fact, many say it is the best tactic just to let mature customers choose for themselves from the variety of stock. And when presenting the options, chain retailers suggest giving special attention to shapes that make them look young.

"They want shapes that are going to complement their maturity and not make them feel like they are older," says LensCrafters' Donnelly.

With this strategy in place, it is likely the optical marketplace could see an increase in sales of eyewear to this senior age group. "There will absolutely be growth in this market," she adds, "and as Baby Boomers age, it will become more and more important to offer the right product." EB

Erinn Morgan is the fashion and market editor of Eyecare Business. For commentary on this article and thoughts on other issues affecting chains, contact her at Eyecare Business, 535 Connecticut Avenue, Suite 104-A, Norwalk, CT 06854-1722 or e-mail erinnmo@aol.com.