Frame model Chloe 295369 for Marcolin; shawl by Adrienne Landeau; pants by Todd Thomas; boots by Stuart Weitzman.

This season brings with it a whole new look to sunwear, a category that has seen strong growth in the optical dispensing arena at both the chain retailer and independent dispenser levels.

Modern styles that have been popular of late, such as sleek wraps and "Jackie O" shapes, are getting pumped up with details like rhinestones, cubic zirconia, and tinted lenses.

Above: Frame model St. John S532 for Marine Eyewear; sweater by William B. for Annette B.; gloves by La Crasia. Below: Frame model ic! berlin style Louise; clothes by Marithe Francois Girbaud.

Unusual lens shapes are giving rimless styles a new twist, and there are some truly unusual cutouts and details on the newest plastic sunglasses. And the new millennium has not been forgotten, as futuristic frames push the boundaries of design in new materials.

In general, most dispensers say sunwear sales are currently strong and expect even better results as the spring season gets geared up. "Sunwear business has picked up dramatically for us in all different price points," says Beth Schaeffer of the 14-location Schaeffer Eye Center in Birmingham, Ala., "basically because we are stocking so much more."

Dispensers report that a variety of sunglass styles are selling well. One trend that has perked up business in particular is the shift to styles that are distinctly men's or women's.

"No more unisex," says Ruth Domber, owner of the two 10/10 Optics locations in the New York City area. "There is a big move in that direction in fashion. And in eyewear. There are women's styles and there are men's styles and you won't mix that up. We've come to a place in history where women don't have to dress like men to be successful, so we're becoming a generation of rule breakers."

Domber notes that there is also more variety available in sunwear today for the customer to choose from. "There are much more individualized options," she says. "There are larger frames and smaller frames, and the trend today is about what works personally for you."

Frame model Vivienne Westwood VW107, distributed by Red Rose; clothes by Vivienne Westwood.

Also noteworthy are retro styles from the '50s and '60s making a comeback. "The retro larger sunglasses from the '50s are so great," says Schaeffer.

Phil Poppinga, president of H.L. Purdy Opticians with four locations in New York City, adds, "Customers love the old, classic aviators that are coming back. Some are larger and some are smaller in size, but no one's going as big as they used to be when they first came out."

Also a flashback to the past is the continued popularity of fashion tints for sunwear (as well as light tints for ophthalmic frames). The new direction for tints is in new and unusual colors, some of them very sophisticated.

"The fashion tints for sunglasses are still so much fun," says Schaeffer. "Even Cartier is doing that now with drill mounts and salmon, blue, mint green, or aqua blue lenses."

"The newest thing for us is the polarized photochromics," says Poppinga. "In general we sell a lot of polarized, and we do a lot of tints."

One more retro-inspired trend is that of jewels and rhinestones on the temples or fronts (or both) of the sunglass frame. "It's a fun thing and some of them are really great," says Poppinga. "Again, it's bringing something back." Some lines featuring some of the season's rhinestone and bejeweled looks include Sama, Selima, Lafont, and Vivienne Westwood.

Him: Frame model HUGO Hugo Boss 15804 for Charmant; clothes by Hugo Boss. Her: Frame model Oliver Peoples 593; clothes by Marithe Francois Girbaud; gloves by La Crasia; boots by Stuart Weitzman. Him: Frame model Persol 2599-S for Luxottica; clothes by EXSTO. Her: CK 3011 for Marchon; sweater by QUO for Annette B; shoes by Stuart Weitzman.        Right: Frame model Brendel Lunettes 8583; clothes by EXSTO.

According to Domber, there is also a movement away from clip-ons into a second pair of Rx sunglasses.

"If you're going to spend a day out in the sun, you should have a proper sunglass," she says. "So we're seeing sunglasses get a little larger because people want protection."

Overall, most dispensers agree that all sunglass trends point to one general direction: Away from sports-inspired, trendy styles and gravitating toward more whimsical, sophisticated, and fanciful styles.

"There is a real departure from sports-influenced design for sunglasses and a real entrance to more plastic or metal materials that are picking up on elegant streetwear styles," says Domber. "In general there is a nationwide trend moving away from such a focus on sports and activity. Instead, people are cuddling up to cozier materials and looking inward and focusing on personal development."

This translates to eyewear with a much softer appeal and less hard-edged metallic sports frames that are sharp and dramatic. EB