Sure, there was technology. And there were advances in lenses. However, the real showstopper at this year's MIDO show, held May 5th through May 8th in Milan, was style. Frame style, that is.

In a city where everyone is dressed to the nines-the suits, the shoes, the impeccable taste-it was highly appropriate that fashion was the main theme of the show, which celebrated its 30th anniversary this year. There was no one direction, however. In fact, the true style came from diversity in frame design-the true availability of something for everyone.

In more than 46,000 square meters of display area at the Milan Fiera (convention center) there were 1,143 exhibitors (up 5.4 percent over 1999). Confirming the truly international appeal of MIDO, as many as 639 of these exhibitors were from abroad and 504 were from Italy. As a stark example of how the show has truly grown over the years, MIDO supplied the exhibitor figures from 1970, at the show's inception. That year, there were a total of 140 companies showing at MIDO, 39 of which were foreign exhibitors. Like the industry, this major show has truly grown.

The number of attendees is also growing. This year, the show drew a total of 12,450 people. Of that number, 8,320 were foreigners and 4,130 were Italians-a testimony to the true international flavor of the show.

To illustrate the show's forward-thinking nature, the MIDO organizers set up a series of online services to facilitate communication at and about the event. These included Internet connections, the possibility for exhibitors to register the number of visitors to their stands directly online, complete floor plans online, and computer work stations.

Additionally, the plethora of trends presented at the show was highlighted in a special section called the "Trend Area." It hosted about 50 different trend-setting companies and their fashion wares in a 2,000 square meter area. The MIDO organizers also pinpointed the major trends in the 2001 Fashion Trendbook, distributed at the show.

Show Stoppers

There was a variety of fashion trends presented at the show. However, many of them can be grouped into a few categories. Following are the major directions presented at the show and outlined in the MIDO Fashion Trendbook.

Oscar Nights Eyewear that is romantic, glamorous, and individual. (1) Large, thick acetate sunwear with dark lenses, such as this model (Hamptons Beach Spirit) from Chaumet by L'Amy. (2) Sexy glamour is the draw with this Gucci sunglass with extended temples for added drama (model GG 2456). (3) A walk on the wild side with Salvatore Ferragamo by Luxottica frames that have animal prints laminated on the inside of a zyl frame (model 2517). Also, (4) Celebrating the new Roberto Cavalli line, launched at MIDO by Marcolin, are Roberto Cavalli (center left) and Maurizio Marcolin (center right) along with other show attendees.

Oscar Nights. This trend encompasses the romantic, the glamorous, the individual. It is almost always lapsing into kitsch, but it never steps over the borderline. It has a sophisticated image and a tendency towards luxury. But it is simultaneously modern and vaguely retro. The frame styles that fit into this category include the cat eyes, the Jackie Os, the large plastic rectangles. All these styles have their roots in the traditional, yet they progress in larger shapes, thicker plastics. They are simply how they look-more. Red, even in darker shades like burgundy, and black dominate the mixed color palette. However, many more dramatic treatments, like rhinestones and unusually colored laminates, are added to punch up the look.

Tech-Shui. According to the MIDO Trendbook, this trend stems from the idea of: "Different styles, objective rhythms of life and instead purely subjective and emotional desires cause us to constantly compare ourselves with space-our own and that of others-and to redefine living and working environments, to reinvent relationships with objects, clothes, and accessories." While this statement may seem complex, the trend simply boils down to the idea of balance between humans and objects.

	Tech Shui This trend includes eyewear that is technologically inspired, yet soft and balanced in nature. It is "the union of neurotic thought with the calmness of meditation." (5) These simple, yet modern frames from Try Sun (models B913-B914) in a variety of lens tints illustrate the idea. (6) Amorphous shapes are also a part of this balanced trend, such as this style from Maryam Zaim.

The tech part is about technology and modern-day society; and the shui part is about feng shui, the ancient art of positioning pieces of furniture and objects in your environment according to the principles of a balance that respects our biorhythms and health. The combination of the two ideas takes our fast-paced world and slows it down (contrasting, for example, the "speed of online communication and the slowness of the Japanese green tea ceremony").

The eyewear related to this direction has soft geometric shapes with rounded off parts and is often accented with technology. It's made of thin metal or acetate. Colors are therapeutic and muted-beige, sand, tobacco, sage green, or deep red.

Pure*Next. This trend relates to purity through the absence of decorative features. Simplicity through the use of strong, textured, thick materials that play with transparency and volume. It is "sincere because it does not rely on tricks or aesthetic devices," according to the Trendbook. The frame shapes are small or wraparound and neutral color tones prevail-whites and other hues with a metallic coldness. Many frames introduced at the show under this trend direction featured simple designs and material constructions, yet played with light through the lamination of zyl. Of note were optical styles in rectangular shapes, which had a clear laminate on the back of the frame and on the inside of the frame. When moved around, these frames appeared to be lit from underneath, such was the effect of the crystal acetate.

Pure*Next Simple, pure, clean lines and frames without details or gimmicks mark this trend in eyewear. (7) Frames with crystal acetate laminated on the back give their own dramatic effect through the appearance that they are lit from underneath, such as this model (NR 2486) from Nina Ricci, by L'Amy. (8) This model (42-0002) from Alexander McQueen by Murai represents the simple, clean lines and the "lighting" effect created by lamination. The McQueen line was introduced for the first time at MIDO and will soon be available in the United States.

Con-fusion. This direction is a hybrid of styles that is a patchwork, a collage. It never actually lapses into confusion, even though there is a lot going on. This style changes the rules of the game, mixes up emotions and environments, and revives the past.

It is, according to the Trendbook, a mixture of "our present-day cultural complexity which also fully describes our personal history." This trend pulls styles from the past-aviators, oversized shapes, seventies styles-and makes them modern. The colors and shapes in eyewear are truly energetic.

Con-fusion Welcome back, 1970s. This trend combines modernity and history into a fashion statement. (9) Here, thick plastic styles in vibrant colors from HUGO by Cxd are reminiscent of days gone by but still truly styled for the millennium (model HG 15815). (10) Oversized metal frames with a gradient tinted lens also bring back the cool times of the '60s and '70s from Gianfranco Ferre by Safilo Group (models GFF 531/5).

Circuits. Finally, the Internet and fast-paced communication have inspired this trend based on technology and futuristic looks. This includes eyewear where the frame is almost absent: "It becomes almost invisible or is presented in the same color and the same transparency as the lens." These styles draw their inspiration from optical fibers and electronic circuits, and "their presence-absence on the face becomes almost virtual."
This trend was dominant at the show, and nearly every progressive frame company had something to offer in this area. These frames are constructed of a single, large lens, often wrapped and tinted, and the frame is truly secondary. Many companies promoted them as a "shield," and the look was often so large that it resembled the frames designed to be placed over eyeglasses-such as Fitovers. And some, such as the new Eyers line from France (www.eyers.com), played off this "shield" look, incorporating actual patterns, prints, and designs on the front.

Going even one step further, a new collection, called line3, which was launched by the designer of Sama eyewear, Sheila Vance, incorporates a feature into the frame that, according to the company, absorbs and repels radiation that is directed toward the eyes from the use of computers, cell phones, and other technological products. These shields have a very unique look and function.

Circuits This trend is a result of the proliferation of high-speed communication and the Internet. The frame styles are futuristic, sleek and provide full coverage in "shields." (11) The frame is truly minimal in this trend, as illustrated here in this Chanel frame by Luxottica (model 4007). (12) In the Roberto Cavalli line, launched at MIDO by Marcolin, unique iridescent tinting makes a mark (model RC 7S503). (13) And these frames from Oxydo by S�filo (model OX2000) create a seriously large wraparound shield effect.

The Mix. A few other trends became evident at the show, in addition to those described by the MIDO Trendbook. In keeping with the season's clothing trends, animal prints were a big hit. Even leather and python appeared on some frames. On a more feminine and glamorous note, rhinestones were dominant in some frame lines. Sparkle "car colors" were also apparent and added a hint of uniqueness to simple frame designs. Additionally, rubberized and "sueded" zyls were popular. Rimless frames were important, and the trends showed that size does matter-small seems to be a trend of the past as almost all trendy frame styles are heading in a larger direction. With all of this new fashion, there is truly something for everyone. And this arrangement of offerings in the optical market is sure to perk up the look, atmosphere, and sales of most optical dispensaries, whether here or abroad. EB