He effuses an air of ease and humor. It fits well with Tommy Hilfiger's corporate design philosophy-a "unique synthesis of classics and the latest fashion trends."

The first time I met Hilfiger was at a press conference held on his mammoth sailing yacht that was docked in the Hudson River near the Financial District in New York City. His small frame was swathed head-to-toe in a seersucker suit that had a very modern cut-and was anchored with white bucks.

Right in step with his very own corporate fashion concept. "My personal style is what my designs are all about," Hilfiger recently told Eyecare Business. "Classic American styles with a modern twist."

Watching Hilfiger in action at this event, one could surmise that the mega-designer is invariably down-to-earth and hospitable. He glided about the deck commanding as little attention as if he were a guest himself, and not the grand master of ceremonies.

However, make no mistake that this man knows how to run the show. Which is exactly how he has come to build a nearly $2-billion-a-year business selling an image coupled with strong design to an audience of millions. The rundown of products emanating from Hilfiger Central is mind-boggling: Men's, women's and children's clothing, athletic apparel, jeans, fragrances, robes and sleepwear, socks, sunglasses, footwear, handbags, bath and body products, cosmetics, home furnishings, watches, small leather goods, jewelry, women's legwear, intimate apparel, golfwear, and swimwear.

Hilfiger has also put his focus onto eyewear line for men, women, and children produced and distributed by Lantis Eyewear Corporation, which also holds the license for Tommy Hilfiger sunglasses.

Cool Factor

For a middle-aged man living in Connecticut, Hilfiger is definitely one hip dude, dabbling in every aspect of popular culture. There was the sponsorship of the Rolling Stones concert.

And the current tour with Jewel. There are the sports sponsorships. And there are the "Tommy" models who have become celebrities in their own right.

Tommy Hilfiger style TW119 for Lantis Eyewear.

One hit on to the tommy.com Website, and you'll begin to get an idea what the hubub is all about. This interactive site, launched in November 1999, is another high-profile branding effort created to support the cause-proliferating the Tommy Hilfiger image. Highlights include video clips from the runway and backstage at his fashion shows. There's also a contest to score some cool Hilfiger home furnishings. And you can click in to buy his mainly pictorial books on rock'n'roll and sports or join the "Tommy Club" for up-to-the-minute fashion news and more. It makes one realize that the Tommy Hilfiger Corporation is truly an empire.

There is, however, a bit of a rumble in the Tommy camp these days, beyond the loud rock music and the noisy superstars. For the first time since going public, Hilfiger's earnings were down in the first quarter of fiscal 2001. Net revenue was $399.9 million compared to $419.1 million, but Hilfiger explains that the company was hit by a $62 million restructuring charge and heavy markdowns.

However, in the volatile world of fashion, earnings peaks and valleys are par for the course-and Hilfiger's company has been one of the most solid in recent years. (Still, Hilfiger has not been immune to tabloid mudracking, since he's been a focus in the gossip columns because of his impending divorce.)

A sampling from Tommy Hilfiger's Fall 2000 apparel line.

Despite these setbacks, Hilfiger's success is still mammoth-and it makes Hilfiger's roots seem even more humble. Born in Elmira, N.Y., he began his retail career in 1969 with $150 and 20 pairs of bell-bottom jeans. With nothing more than this and his uncanny sense of design and marketing, he opened his own stores-People's Place-throughout the upstate New York area.

With no formal training, he began designing clothes for his customers who wanted something a bit more unconventional. Fueled by his success in retail and design, in 1979 he moved to New York City to pursue a career as a fashion designer. His first signature collection was introduced in 1984 and Hilfiger made certain that it was supported with a brazen advertising campaign that declared him as the "new leader in men's fashion." A bold statement in a big city of bold individuals.

The press (as well as other designers) wrote Hilfiger off as a blast of hot air. Many felt he was nothing more than a talented marketer and not a true designer. However, in 1992, he surprised everyone and he and his partners, Silas Chou, Lawrence Stroll, and Joel Horowitz, took the company public (NYSE:TOM). And today, it's one of the more successful fashion houses in existence. In casual and formal conversation his name is ranked with the likes of Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein.

In testament, the fashion industry has bestowed him with numerous honors to bolster his resume. For example, in 1998, Parson School of Design in New York City honored him its their Designer of the Year award, as did GQ magazine for its annual "Men of the Year" issue. In 1995 he was named Menswear Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. That same year, he received VH1's "From the Catwalk to the Sidewalk" award at their annual Fashion and Music Awards. He has also won several FiFi Awards, the fragrance industry's most illustrious honor.

Part of his success has been his ability to appeal to a vast array of people from different age and cultural groups. "The Tommy Hilfiger lines attract customers of many age groups by offering a wide variety of products suitable for many different lifestyles," he says. "It can be anyone of any age from kids to teens, to parents. I believe that the most important thing is that the individual has a strong sense of style and fashion and knows how to have fun with it."

In Sight

This philosophy flows directly into his new eyewear line with Lantis as well. "[It] takes its lead from the clothing, especially in the colorations and detail elements used," Hilfiger explains. "We look at each frame to make sure that it contains the signature Tommy elements-a wide range of materials and colors finished off with innovative and modern logo treatments."

For example, the Fall 2000 launch collection features classic American styles-aviators, Hollywood icon looks and retro shapes. "The eyewear and sunglass styles range from casual too sporty to hip to classic," he says.

Lantis acquired the Tommy Hilfiger ophthalmic license through an exclusive agreement with Liberty Optical, which previously held the license. Under the terms of this new contract, Lantis Eyewear will also acquire the sales and marketing team that was assigned to the brand at Liberty Optical.

A sampling from Tommy Hilfiger's Fall 2000 apparel line.

"Consolidating our eyewear business into one licensee will strengthen our position in the eyewear market," said Joel Horowitz, CEO of Tommy Hilfiger Corporation.

"This acquisition will play an integral role in the evolution of our business, particularly in the growth of our women's and children's collections," Horowitz adds.

In fact, Lantis has launched both men's and women's sunglasses for Tommy Hilfiger, and, in addition to the ophthalmic lines, launched Tommy Hilfiger childrens' sunglasses in Spring 2000. A line of sunglasses for Tommy Jeans is also in development for a launch in 2000.

"We have a tremendous opportunity to grow the Tommy Hilfiger eyewear brand by using all of the design, development, and marketing synergies that exist between the sunglass and optical business," says Lon Moellentine, president and CEO of Lantis Eyewear Corporation. "We are delighted to use that synergy to create outstanding eyewear for Tommy Hilfiger."

And it is no doubt that Hilfiger will be behind this license with full-tilt marketing and image-building. "I think that everyone should have a wardrobe of sunglasses (and eyewear, if you wear glasses) to fit your individual style from day to day," he says.

Beyond his business partnerships, his brand-building, his designing mind and pop culture endeavors, Hilfiger also has a rich personal life-many interests including sailing, scuba diving, skiing, and fishing. It is amazing that he can pack it all in. But what truly fires his life is his passion for design and for clothing the people of the world.

"I am doing with my life what I the love most and that is designing stylish, accessible, and-most importantly-wearable products for men, women, and children of all age groups," he says. "Nothing gives me greater pleasure than to walk down the street and see people wearing my clothes and looking fantastic!" FB