Part of Caviar�s Champagne series, style 6276, with inlaid crystals.

RETAIL
Lap of Luxury
Beat the sluggish economy by offering eyewear to the elite
By Marcy Bruch

Despite a lagging economy, it appears the luxury market continues to thrive. �People who were wealthy before the economy rose and fell still have money and they�re spending it on luxury products,� maintains Richard Morgenthal, owner of Morgenthal Frederics, New York City. �Except for a slowdown that occurred last December, it�s been business as usual here on Madison Avenue.� In fact, Oleg Ravinovich feels so confident that the luxury market will continue to grow, he just opened a high-end eyewear boutique, i fetish, in Nyack, N.Y. this year. �I believe a luxury dispensary is just what�s needed in this area because it�s an artsy, upscale town that gets a lot of New York City tourists who also happen to be discriminating consumers,� says Ravinovich. �There were two previous dispensers that failed in this town, and I think it�s because they didn�t offer enough product that was upscale and unique.�

Robert Marc, owner of Robert Marc Opticians in New York City, makes another point regarding selling luxury goods in the current economic climate. �Typically, when the stock market is down, people tend to invest more in quality accessories like handbags, shoes, jewelry, and eyewear.  Accessories refresh their wardrobe and offer a lot of bang for the buck. Besides, spending a few hundred dollars for new eyewear isn�t the same as buying a new house.�

Robert Marc�s style 510 is made of handmade zyl from France.

Details count

But Marc also warns that getting into the luxury market is not as simple as putting a few expensive frames out on display. �It�s the details that count, and trust me, people notice everything from the case the eyewear comes in, to the quality of your tissue paper and shopping bags. If those items don�t reflect an upscale image, you�re letting your customers down because they expect to be indulged with the finer things when they�re paying premium prices.�

Sally Van Buskirk, vice president of Van Buskirk Opticians in Naples, Fla., agrees. �We send out a quarterly newsletter to our customers that�s printed in four-color on high-quality paper,� she says. �A Xeroxed copy, black and white flyer just wouldn�t do our image justice.�

The newsletter, entitled Eye2Eye, also serves another purpose. �In order for people to justify the price of a high-end frame, they have to be educated about its features and benefits,� she says. �So every newsletter showcases a new frame we�ve just got in with copy that explains what makes it special. Since we�re based in Florida, we also have a column entitled A Shady Tale that includes a photo of our newest sunwear with details explaining state-of-the-art UV protection. It�s been a great tool because the more educated our customer is on quality eyewear, the easier it is for us to sell it to them.�

	Beausoleil sunglasses style 181 features trendy tinted lenses with handmade zyl frames in France

The luxury experience

Though it�s a given that the product must be worth the price, those successful in the luxury sector all agree that the quality of service is just as important. �About 50 percent of what you�re selling is product, and the other 50 percent of what you�re selling is service,� says Morgenthal. �When people come into our store, the music is soothing, the lighting is soft and they feel like they�re in a tranquil haven that makes them think, �Why not spend the money? I�m worth it.��

Bob Royden, owner of Village Eyeworks, with two locations near Phoenix, Ariz., also points out how a properly trained staff enters the equation. �I train my salespeople not to think like they�re spending their own money when presenting product. Instead, I teach them to show the top of the line with confidence. Because once people have seen the best, nothing else will do.� He adds, �In order for people to feel sales consultants are credible however, they have to dress and act in a manner that customers can relate to. So it�s important for your sales staff to act polished and dress upscale.�

Think like a retailer

Marc advises dispensers to think less like a medical consultant and more like a retailer. You have to position your business as a fashion destination. That means making an effort to create impactful merchandising and displays. By doing so, you are marketing eyewear as an aspirational product in which price is not the prime issue. �When you sell frames based on price alone, your business runs the risk of falling into a downward spiral because that�s the only thing that�s exciting the customer,� says Marc. �But once you get people to desire the product for its status, they�re coming to you with a totally different mindset. You should make it your mission to market eyewear as a fabulous fashion accessory.�

	Toki�s Ultra Violet frame produces a glowing, bright effect through hand-carving on the frame fronts.

Still, don�t overlook the power of a doctor�s advice. �When Dr. Johnson is finished examining patients, he physically escorts them to the optician and recommends that he show about three of our very best frames to the customer,� says Sheri Raymer, manager for Iredell Eye Center in Statesville, N.C. �This sets up the optician to close the sale. By utilizing the doctor�s credibility, we�ve sold eight Louis F. L�Amy frames that retail for $475 in less than two weeks time. The line�s lifetime warranty also helps the customer justify the cost. Though we don�t carry a lot of high-end frames, the ones we do carry turn quickly.�

In fact, many agree that if you�re in the high-end market, it�s not necessary to carry a vast array of lines. �I only carry between six and seven collections and that�s more than enough,� says Ravinovich of i fetish Optique. �Except for Oliver Peoples, they all come from France or Germany.� Similarly, Royden of Village Eyeworks carries Cazal, Lafont, Neostyle, Face � Face, and Golden Wood by Edward Beiner. �Many of my frames are from Germany or France, and retail for around $450. The benefit to carrying imported product is that it brings an element of exclusivity to your practice,� says Ravinovich. �For example, I just started carrying some exquisite buffalo horn frames and because they are hard to find, they�re doing very well.�

Morgenthal adds, �It�s not so important to carry a lot of lines as it is to carry a healthy assortment of frames that represent a collection well.�

Kajia�s style AK60, which comes with a light cosmetic tint; and AK69, which is a double laminate in black lacquer.

Fashion savvy

And let�s not forget the importance of staying ahead of the fashion curve. Because more often than not, people who buy high-end product want to be on the cutting edge. �We may be in a retirement community, but that doesn�t mean our customers are stodgy,� points out  Van Buskirk. �For example, you wouldn�t believe how hot rimless shields are down here in Florida. The trend even took me by surprise.�

Royden says the same thing is happening in Arizona. �Our customers don�t want to be stereotyped as blue haired and bedecked in rhinestones. They want to look hip and they want us to help make them look up-to-date.�

In New York City, Morgenthal reports that the aviator craze has slowed down but larger, bulkier zyls are gaining ground. �There are two trends going on now in color. One makes the lenses the star through rimless looks in multicolored gradients. The other trend places the emphasis on frames that feature rich colors such as melon, red, blue, and deep green. In shapes, the oval is all but dead. Square shapes that are less horizontal and deeper on the face are starting to pick up.� Marc maintains that rimless looks have yet to peak and plastics continue to get bigger and bolder. �Best-selling metals are either made with a special material like titanium, or have a vintage look,� says Marc.

�Just remember, think like a retailer, and pay attention to detail. Offer high quality, exclusivity, exceptional service and you�re on your way. If you can pull it off, you�ll protect yourself from managed care, your competition, and even a down economy.� Marc concludes, �No one believed there was a better way to market coffee until Starbucks came along to prove that presentation and environment can raise the status of a simple cup of coffee. The same can be said for luxury eyewear. Present eyewear as an aspirational item and I promise you�ll take your business to a whole new level.�