THE
LAST WORD
All Shapes and Sizes
By Susan P. Tarrant
Cat-eyes, rectangles, ovals, butterfly. Large, small, rimless, bold. The choices are seemingly endless... but why does some eyewear look better on some people than others? It�s a simple fact that most faces aren�t perfectly shaped, and therefore some eyewear flatters while other eyewear... well, doesn�t. So the challenge of an optician is to match the right shape of frames to the customer�s face shape. According to Carol Norbeck in her book, �See the World in Style,� and to the Vision Council of America�s Envision Yourself program, a good method to determine face shape is by dividing the face into vertical sections and horizontal sections. The width of the face is divided into five sections that are each the width of an eye. The face can also be divided horizontally into three sections: Hairline to browline, browline to bottom of nose, bottom of nose to bottom of chin. If, for example, the bottom third is imbalanced, due to something like a very pronounced or square jaw, narrow frames with a pronounced horizontal line will help offset the bottom portion of the face. Another way to determine face shape is by visualizing dots placed on each side of the customer�s brow, cheek, and jaw. The dots will help you �see� a face shape and size, as well as its strong points and weak points, according to the Envision Yourself program. Cut out people�s headshots from magazines, or use family portraits and literally draw the dots. Watch the shapes emerge. Once you get the hang of it, you�ll be able to �see� the shape and size of your customers� faces as soon as they walk in. OK. Now you know the face shapes; next is learning how to use eyewear to downplay imbalances and enhance other features.
� Oval. Middle third is slightly longer than other thirds. Select a frame with enough depth to create balance in the middle third�ones that are as wide or wider than the broadest part of the face.
� Diamond. Narrow at the eyeline and jawline. Cheekbones are often high and dramatic. Choose frames that widen the forehead and jaw and minimize the temples and cheekbones�heavy on top, with straight or rounded frame sides. Square frames or ones with a straight top and curved bottom work well, too.
� Round. Full, as wide as it is long, with few angles. Frames should make the face appear longer and thinner, such as angular frames and ones that are wider than they are deep. Avoid excessively round or square styles.
� Square. Strong jaw line, broad forehead, and wide chin and cheekbones. Frames should make the face look longer, such as those with weight on top and ones that are wider than the widest part of the face. Choose gently curved narrow styles.
� Base-down triangle. Narrow forehead and full jawline. Choose frames that accent the eye area and be wide enough to balance the jawline. Frame tops should be slightly heavy; bottoms should angle inward, such as squares, straight-top aviators, or metal frames with rimless bottoms.
� Base-up triangle. Face is widest at the forehead and narrows at the chin. Try frames that are wider at the bottom, like aviator, butterfly.
� Oblong. Longer than it is wide. Frames should �break� the length of the face, making it appear shorter and wider. Choose frames with top-to-bottom depth; try round, deep, or low-triangle shapes, or frames with strong horizontal lines. For information on the Envision Yourself program, see the VCA Website at www.visionsite.org call 877-642-3253. Mastering these concepts can put you on the way toward filling a niche as the �eyewear makeover� expert!