Appealing to Aging Hipsters
Uncovering what matters most to baby boomers when buying eyewear
By Marcy Bruch

photography by Peter Baker
hair and makeup -  Alicia Kochis
model - Robert Keller, McDonald/Richards CT
clothing - Courtesy of Mitchell's of Westport and Richard's of Greenwich, Conn.

They're more educated than their parents, more materialistic, still a tad rebellious, and there's lots of them out there-about 78 million in this country alone. They are the baby boomers, born between 1946 and 1964. And even though one of them is turning 50 every 7.5 seconds, don't dare call them old.

Many of this generation cling to the identity that gained them notoriety when they attended peace rallies and Woodstock during the '60s. While long hair and bell-bottoms have given way to graying temples and Gap khakis, this generation-which embraces the name of aging hipsters-is still proud of being the messengers for peace and love.

But gone are the days of sleeping in Volkswagen vans and living hand-to-mouth. Today, this generation is capitalism's best customer. Boomers are residing in the houses of their dreams, driving SUVs, and playing with electronics that are top-of-the-line and state-of-the-art.

Despite the threat of Social Security dwindling, boomers don't deny themselves the luxurious extras that their parents passed up. So it's no surprise that many dispensers find baby boomers are happy to pay a premium for frames as long as they feel they're getting their money's worth. As more of them become empty nesters, this generation will continue to be the demographic with the most disposable income for years to come.

"I work near the Microsoft headquarters in Seattle, where most of my customers are baby boomers with careers in the computer field," says Jeff Brooks, managing optician of Sound Eye Laser. "I can tell you that price is rarely an issue with them. When I compare boomers to the geriatric set where we have to fight for every dollar, they're an easy sell. The key is getting them to believe in the value of the product."

Hey Big Spender

Since many of his clients are high-tech workers who need eyewear specifically for long hours viewing a computer monitor and eyewear for other uses, Brooks has been successful selling these boomers two pairs of prescription eyewear. "I've had success selling Microsoft employees a task-oriented pair of progressives that is amended so that the top portion of the lens is an intermediate power and the bottom portion is for reading. The eyewear isn't suitable for long-distance sight. That's why we also recommend a second pair of progressives for everyday use. Boomers recognize the value of having both kinds of eyewear for a specific purpose and understand their eyesight is worth the high price tag."

Some dispensers say they don't even have to go into an extensive monologue on frame and lens features and benefits, since baby boomers will do their homework on eyewear. "My baby boomer customers are well educated about polarized lenses, and the benefits of titanium," says Hilda McFall, an optician for West Coast Eye Institute in Lecanto, Fla. "Since Florida is home to many boaters and golfers, they recognize they have to pay a premium for superior non-glare and UV protection. If they have titanium golf clubs, they're aware of titanium's lightweight, non-corrosive and durable properties." While her average price for a frame is $150, McFall says boomers will spend upwards of $225 to $300.

	Calvin Klein style #739 for Marchon. Shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna.

WORK HARD, PLAY HARD

Boomers are tied to their identity as the first youth culture and they are fighting aging every step of the way. Which is why sports and exercise eyewear play an important role to this group. "In sunwear, we're doing well with the new titanium rimless styles among both men and women boomers. But our customers also request sunwear with side shields for total UV protection from every direction," says McFall.

"If the manufacturers came out with smaller, more stylish sunglasses with side shields, I guarantee I would sell them to boomers because they want to protect their eyes, and the skin around their eyes, from the aging effects of the sun," she points out.

Sports sunwear brands sell well among her baby boomer clientele because they offer all the bells and whistles-such as rubber-grip temples and interchangeable lenses-to enhance athletic performance, says Kathy Croishank, an optician for Central Ohio Eyecare in Columbus, Ohio. "We have 40-something runners, bikers, golfers and tennis players who want eyewear that helps, not hinders, their sporting activities," says Croishank.

Since baby boomers are heading toward their retirement years, eyewear that addresses the needs of an active lifestyle which includes tennis, boating, and golf will be all the more important to boomers in years to come, McFall says.

THE PROGRESSIVE CHALLENGE

That leads Hellyn Ragsdale, owner of A&B Optical in Monterey, Calif., to the issue of progressives. "We've had some luck with the Varilux Panamic lenses, but if more manufacturers would produce frames that were just two millimeters deeper, it would make all the difference in the world."

For some, such as Carmen Berlanga, an optician at Alamo City Optical in San Antonio, Texas, smaller frames mean more careful ordering. "We sell a lot of progressives to baby boomers here. And we have no problem with the smaller frames. If you get the exact PD and seg height, I guarantee you will have no problems. But you also have to find a good lab that can execute your orders correctly."

A good first experience can help build a solid relationship, says Terry Housand, a managing optician for Eastern Carolina Regional Eye Center in Myrtle Beach, S.C. "What distinguishes the baby boomers is that many of them are coming to us to be fitted with prescription eyewear for the first time due to the onset of presbyopia. So if the progressives bother them due to incorrect measurements, they'll simply stop wearing them. Then you've lost a repeat customer."

Like Ragsdale, Housand says she believes the market needs more large frames, but for a different reason. "There's a lot of baby boomer men with bigger heads who just don't look good in the smaller frames. The width on many of these frames is only 38 to 40 millimeters across and that isn't wide enough to properly fit these big guys."

When it comes to baby boomer men picking out frames, comfort is key. "I would have to say that comfort and durability top the list for baby boomer men, while looking good and being fashion-forward is the priority among baby boomer women," says Croishank of Central Ohio Eyecare. "Three-piece rimless mounts for men have really been moving for us. And I believe it's because baby boomer men want their eyewear to look as unobtrusive as possible."

Titanium frames or stainless steel in light silver are preferred by Ragsdale's male clientele because it's a great accent against graying hair. Baby boomer women, however, are leaning more toward plastic in rich colors. "We're selling rich double and triple laminates in deep browns, blues, greens, and even reds to women in angular shapes," says Croishank. "Baby boomer women are also more likely to want a designer brand frame," she adds.

TRENDS GOING FORWARD

Croishank notes that Midwesterners have shied away from oversize, rimless-style sunwear, "Maybe by next year they'll start to sell." But, the demand for oversized sunglass shields has already come and gone in New York City, says Richard Morgenthal, president of Morgenthal Frederics.

"Due to the terrorist attacks, the mood of the nation has changed, causing consumers to yearn for more classic, retro styling that nods to a more innocent age," Morgenthal says. "This is especially true among baby boomers. We started noticing the shift last spring and responded by bringing in more classic-styled frames that are less ostentatious. The baby boomers want frames with staying power, so earth tones and tortoise are taking the place of more brightly colored frames with glitzy details," he adds.

Even with this return to preppy chic, Morgenthal notes that his baby boomer clients would protest at the sight of eyewear that even hints of stodginess. "There are two different groups of boomers," says Morgenthal. "One group wants their eyewear to be almost transparent, so it practically disappears on their face. They're the group that prefers three-piece rimless mounts. The other group wants their eyewear to make a statement about their personality, so they're more likely to buy a frame that has rich, multicolored texture or is made of double-laminated plastic," Morgenthal says.

"This group is also more likely to embrace the concept of eyewear wardrobing. You could have a 40 year-old who wants unobtrusive eyewear, and a 50-year-old who wants a frame made of multicolored plastic, so it has little to do with age. It's all in the mindset." Whether baby boomers knock themselves out on a racquetball court, or moonlight in a rock 'n' roll band, they seem determined to keep a slice of their youth alive.