THE LAST WORD
Accessory Power
By Marcy Bruch

Despite retailers complaining about how the lagging economy has put a damper on apparel sales, there is one bright spot in shops and it's shining on the main floor of department stores. That's where the accessories are. And why are they performing so well compared to apparel? "When Wall Street is in a slump, women turn to accessories as a cost effective optical illusion to upgrade their outfits without spending what they would for a whole new wardrobe," explains Irenka Jakubiak, editor-in-chief for Accessories magazine. Adds Bruce Makowsky, president of Nine West Accessories: "A handbag is a lot cheaper to buy than a suit. And it still has the same updating effect on a woman's wardrobe."

Though the accessory business at large only grew by about three percent from 1999 to 2000, it still brought in a whopping $26 billion in sales during 2000 alone, according to the most recent annual census in Accessories. "Each classification does goes through its up-and-down trending cycles. It's not like they're all going gangbusters at once," admits Jakubiak. "For example, a year ago the belt business was in a slump, but this year it's one of the hottest accessories of the moment," she says. Many department store buyers also report that designer sunwear has been a hot ticket accessory since last spring.

photo courtesy of Nine West

According to the research firm the NPD Group, sunglasses currently account for 13 percent of the total accessory purchases among consumers over the past year with sales increases of about 20 percent. That percent of share tops even handbags, which also enjoyed a 20 percent increase in business but only accounted for 11 percent of total accessory sales.

The one thing most all new accessories share in common, however, is how their design elements echo current fashion themes. Case in point, this fall, the military, punk rock, and equestrian looks are trending. These themes are evident on handbags, belts, boots, and shoes that feature grommets, army green, camouflage, metal studs, and houndstooth accents and finishes.

"Rose gold and copper are freshening up jewelry and other metal finishes in accessories, so I believe that will cross over into eyewear as we move into 2002," adds Jakubiak. "I've observed the shield evolve by getting smaller each season."

Jakubiak's predictions for accessory trends next year include the evolution of the belt, which will often feature streamers of ribbon or leather, and the re-emergence of the preppy look. "We believe strongly in the return of American classics, which means accessories in Burberry plaids, madras, striping, piping, and, of course, the colors red, white, and blue," she says. "Translated into eyewear, that means a return to classic tortoise and cateye shapes." She concludes, "there's definitely a renewed interest in ladylike basics."