FIX AND FIT
Soldering...
how to get up and running
By Alex Yoho, ABOM

Before you begin soldering, it is important to decide just how, from a business perspective, you will approach the task. For example: Do you want to solder the frame and refinish it to match its original condition? Or, do you just want to leave the frame in an unattractive state? Both have advantages.

Restore or Repair

If you decide to refinish the frame to match the original coloring, there will be a considerable investment in the materials required to do the job.

Expendables will include various abrasives, bits, files, buffing rouges, buffs, cleaning and plating solutions, and myriad paints and lacquers. On the not-so-expendable side is equipment, such as a flexible shaft motor, buffing lathe, electroplating unit, and possibly an airbrush.

The individual who does this work will need to be, or be able to develop into, a metalsmith with skills similar to those of a jeweler. If untrained, this person will not only need time to experiment and develop into a craftsman, but others will have to fill in his or her other duties to make time for soldering. This is true of either approach you take. It is also usually the thing that catches a business most by surprise. Soldering will require time and uninterrupted concentration.

The obvious advantage is a satisfied patient. The frame has the same appearance as when it was new, it is probably stronger than it was to begin with, and it didn't cost an arm and a leg to make it that way.

If you decide to take the quick and dirty approach, you can leave the frame functional and burned looking, or you can clean the oxidation and burnt paint, which will leave the frame in a cleaner, but somewhat roughened, state. You'll have gotten the patient through an emergency, but they'll likely buy a new frame after the emergency is over.

Equipment Basics

The next step is addressing what basic equipment you'll need. Soldering requires concentrated heat of around 1,500�F to warm the frame enough to melt the solder.

Butane. Today, most people use a small, refillable torch that uses butane lighter fuel. This is a inexpensive way to start out.

Tank. Another option is an oxygen/acetylene or oxygen/propane tank setup. This is what jewelers often use so they can operate the torch for long periods without having to refuel.

Water weld. If you really want to get into soldering in a big way, you might invest in a "water weld" system. Available from jewelry supply houses, they cost several thousand dollars and are most suited to production use.

Electric resistance. There are a few die-hards out there who use electric resistance machines to solder. These devices have a carbon rod, through which electricity passes, and a lead that uses an alligator clip to attach to the frame. The advantage of this method is that you don't have to buy fuel (other than the minimal electricity it uses). Carbon rods are eventually used up but should last nearly a year when used for one or two solders a day. A definite disadvantage is that if the frame is moved during soldering, the electricity will arc, creating pits in the metal of the frame.

Optical Solder

Of course, the key word in soldering is solder. The kind used in optical is not the same as the soft solder used in electronics. Optical solder is more akin to gold or silver solder and often is a blend or alloy of silver and other metals. It is much harder than lead-based solders and melts at a much higher temperature.

It is available in many forms, and jewelers as well as opticians have used flat-sheet or solid-wire solder that is sold by the "pennyweight." The flat sheets are scored to help craftsmen measure out and clip the correct amount. But the more recently introduced sticks of solder, which are actually tubes filled with flux, have been embraced by the optical industry.

When using solder, you will need a few items to prevent finger burns.

Hemostat plier. One of the best devices for holding hot, small parts is surgical hemostat pliers. They can lock with just a squeeze, and they also release quickly.

Jig. A soldering jig is essential for jigging frame parts into place to be soldered. Some are made from alligator clips that move on ball joints for proper alignment, and some are more like clamps (also on ball joints) which sometimes secure the work more firmly.

Probe. A probe of some sort is also desirable for moving hot pieces into place. Items used as a probe range from a simple nail to an awl specifically made for this purpose.

Beaker. Above all, keep a beaker or pan of cool water handy that can accept both the frame and soldering jig. You should make it a habit to cool everything in the water before proceeding with the next step.

	Use a plier to keep the frame steady.

Cleaning Musts

Flux is an acidic substance that cleans metal as it's heated. Since liquid solder will not stick to metal that is dirty, it is essential to use flux (unless the solder you've selected for use already contains it).

Since flux is acidic, its fumes are particularly irritating to inhale, so it should be used in a well-ventilated or open area. You should be sure to get and display the M.S.D.S. (Material Safety Data Sheets) that applies to the particular type of flux that you use.

To initially clean the area, many forms of abrasives are available-wire brushes, sandpaper in several grit sizes, diamond files; or opt for my personal favorite: rubber-bonded abrasive.

Available in many shapes and sizes, rubber-bonded abrasive looks and feels like an eraser, but it has sharp granules of sand blended in. It is essentially rubber sandpaper in block or stick form and can be further cut into shapes to get into tight places.

Soldering Station

The location in which you set up the soldering station should provide plenty of space around the torch area so there is no potential for fire. If you use paints or lacquers, you should be particularly aware of flammable fumes in the vicinity of the station.

The work area needs to be well ventilated, even for basic soldering. The bench top should be made of a material that will not burn-a 1/4-inch glass sheet will protect a normal desk or bench, or you can purchase ceramic soldering boards.

If you are just beginning with the basics, it would nonetheless be wise to plan for expansion. Consider leaving a 2- to 2.5-foot space for a buffing lathe, preferably with a filtered fan. A flexible-shaft hand motor often hangs on a pole or bracket on the wall, so that won't take up much, if any, bench space.

And, if you will be using a pen-type plating unit, plan to leave about one square foot of space. Using beakers for plating solutions requires much more space and is generally not recommended because of the dangers associated with spilling or incorrectly mixing chemicals. Paints can often be stored away in small cabinets or placed on shelves on the wall of the bench. Do not, however, keep any flammables near open flames or where sparks may occur.

Regardless of how you plan to accomplish soldering, it's imperative that your business be aware of the Occupational Health and Safety Administration (O.S.H.A.) regulations that require the ready-reference of Material Safety Data Sheets.

And also, be sure that employees are well versed on the safe handling and disposal of any materials used. Without such a program in place, an O.S.H.A. inspection that results in the reporting of a violation could cost you dearly. One final word to the wise: Always do your homework before getting started.