Dynamic Demographics
The unlimited potential of an ethnically diverse market
By Marcy Bruch

Robert LaRoche sunwear model S-44

Even though Hispanics are officially the nation's largest minority, African-Americans and Asians are a significant part of our nation's rich ethnic mix--and each group has its own distinctive eyewear preferences and needs. According to the U.S. Census Bureau, African-Americans account for 13.28 percent of the population and Asians represent 4.4 percent of the country's 288 million people. Like Americans of every race and walk of life, African-Americans and Asians tend to prefer branded eyewear. The difference, however, is that African-Americans gravitate toward fashion-forward designer brands, while Asians generally prefer brands that offer more conservative styles, according to those dispensers interviewed.

RAZZLE DAZZLE

About 95 percent of the customer base at Grand Optical in Queens, N.Y., is African-American, says optician Maribel Rivera. And even though they span a vast age range, most want eyewear that makes some kind of fashion statement. The mix that meets all patients' demands is 60 percent ophthalmic frames and the remaining 40 percent sunwear.

Higher-ticket prices are the norm at Grand Optical because the clientele often prefers the most expensive frames within designer collections.

	Options for eyewear suited particularly toward the African-American and Asian markets are on the rise. Above: MOJA Designs' Maurice Malone style Rollin

"When it comes to prescription eyewear, my customers know they can expect to pay between $400 to $600 for a lens and frame package," Rivera says. "Brands carry a lot of weight here. If I show an eyewear collection under an obscure name, my customers will often ask, 'What's that?' They just pass it up."

Sunwear gets a healthy number of sku's because a fashion-forward pair of sunglasses is just as important to Rivera's customers as trendy ophthalmic frames. In fact, she estimates about 35 percent of her clientele don't even need prescription eyewear and come in strictly to pick from her assortment of luxury sunwear. "My plano sunwear starts at $175 and runs up to $700 for Cartier gold-plated frames."

CELEBRITY INFLUENCE

Another factor that drives her designer sunwear business is celebrity exposure. "I get a lot of people who ask for whatever Sean 'P. Diddy' Combs, Mary J. Blige, Lil' Kim or Jay-Z is currently wearing," she says. "If they bring in a picture from a magazine or newspaper, I can usually figure out the frame manufacturer and style they want. If not, I can at least find something similar."

Both women and men like tints and crystal accents, and Rivera says that African-Americans tend to opt for bigger frames with fashion-forward touches. "A lot of my customers look great in bold, rimless shields."

A collection with colors that enhance darker complexions has been key to drawing African-American patients to Visionmakers in Dayton, Ohio, notes optician Laura Kitchel. This line appeals to younger African-Americans looking for cutting-edge styles in bold shapes and bright colors.

For the over-50 crowd, mainstream frames that are moderately priced to fit into insurance plans meet Kitchel's dispensing needs.

Top: Bada USA style Okio Zyl with Asian bridge option; Bottom: Toki style TK8444

ASIAN FITTING CHALLENGES

Asians are generally conservative while selecting frames, says Homer Owner who operates Rims & Goggles in San Francisco. "I deal with a lot of Asian doctors and lawyers who don't want their eyewear to look obtrusive."

Fitting is a top priority when working with Asian clientele. Metal frames usually work better than plastics because Asians' nose bridges are often flat, and plastic frames slide unless customized with nosepads. "With metal frames, you can always adjust the nosepads so they stay put," Owner says.

In addition, Asians have comparatively narrow PDs, which adds yet more complications to the fitting process. To give Asians more options, Owner has experimented with adjusting the bridges of plastic frames by molding the angle of the saddle bridge so they stay on the face without sliding.

Vincent Dagron, owner of the dispensary See Comme Ça in Oakland, Calif., is in the process of developing an eyewear line targeted specifically toward the Asian market, joining several other manufacturers currently offering special fitting options to this audience. His wife, optometrist Tanya Gill, has served as muse for his research, since she also happens to be Asian.

	Vincent Dagron Eyewear style Patrick from the Gravity 2 Collection

LUCKY GREEN

In terms of what they want in frame style and color, Asians prefer three-piece rimless mounts and subtle, colored metal looks. When it comes to shape, angular frames sell better than softer, rounder frames and look better on many Asian faces, as well.

And what about color? "I always sell a lot of green frames to my Asian customers," Owner says. "Perhaps it's because green has always been considered a lucky color in Asian culture."

With a growing diverse population in the U.S., there is tremendous potential for new eyewear collections to meet the specific fitting issues of these clients. Owner concludes: "No matter how great a frame looks on the board, if it doesn't fit correctly it's a moot point. Fit should always come first."