Sun Kissed
Discover which sunwear styles are sure to light up your sales
by Marcy Bruch
photography by
Peter Baker
hair/make-up
Alicia Kochis
model
Bianca Jane

There's no question that 2002 was a challenging year for anyone who was in the sunwear business. The roller coaster stock market pushed consumer spending into a conservative mode. And even though lower interest rates jumpstarted housing and car sales, there were no such incentives to point sunwear sales toward positive growth. Still, last year did have its bright moments. Ask anyone selling sunwear what the prevailing trend has been over the past 12 months and the response is unanimous: Rimless rules. Leading the pack in this rimless movement was the ubiquitous silver flash shield that helped push lenses squarely into the fashion spotlight.

Swept Away The newest rimless styles create a sun kissed sensation with warmer, taupe colors. Versace style N38 for IC Optics

"The lens is where all the design focus has been for a while," says Joyce McCaffrey, an optician for Eye Art in Sarasota, Fla. Adds Jeffrey Erber, founder of Jeffrey's Manhattan Eyeland in New York City: "While we're not breaking any records in sunwear sales, we've managed to hold our own by giving our customers the trendy looks of the moment and lately that seems to be rimless."

He also points out that relative to other retail businesses in New York City--especially those located downtown--and says he feels fortunate to be maintaining the business he has.

Greenhouse Effects (left) Silver flash is replaced with a rainbow of gradient tints. cK style cK2037 for Marchon. (right) The cylinder lens is hot for summer. Salvatore Ferragamo style 1069 for Luxottica

"Right now consumers are brand conscious but budget minded when it comes to buying sunwear. With so much product out there, manufacturers with designer brands can't help but become more aggressive with their pricing. Right now, the sweet spot for the consumer to buy at our stores is about $75," notes Jeff Obstfeld, president of Scottsdale, Ariz.-based Iacon, a 65-store chain of sunglass specialties stores that spans throughout the U.S. and includes Sunglass Designs, Sporting Eyes, Occhiali da Sole, Oakley Icon, and the Sunglass Club.

Silver flash shields have also more than pulled their weight in sales and high turns.

	Languid Logos Sneak a peek at logos inset into lenses and floating on the temple for spring. Dolce & Gabbana style DG400S for Marcolin

SHIELD STAYING POWER

The question is where does that trend go from here? "Every time I think the shield trend is about to die down, some manufacturer tweaks it with a different color, which renews the consumer's interest, which in turn kicks off another brisk selling cycle," says Obstfeld. "At this point, I think it's safe to say the shield is here to stay."

Down in Florida, McCaffrey of Eye Art couldn't agree more. "What the shield has done for us is give our customers a good reason to buy two pairs of sunglasses: One for fashion and one for function." Many of McCaffrey's customers buy a shield to wear around town while they are popping in and out of stores shopping, and a pair of polarized sunglasses to wear while on the beach, boating, or playing tennis.

"The beauty of a light-tinted shield is that it blends seamlessly on the face-almost like makeup foundation--making it unobtrusive enough to wear all day," she says. What's more, the shield has helped people become more accustomed to bigger sunglasses, which is why large plastic and metal sunglasses are starting to pick up as well.

Nonetheless, shields do have their drawbacks. The one disadvantage to selling rimless shields is that they aren't Rxable. "I try to push my full-framed plano designer sunglasses because then I can recommend prescriptions or customized lenses," says Harry Marsh, an optician for Eye Doc in Boca Raton, Fla.

For those who don't need a prescription, Marsh says he suggests polarized lenses for their designer sunglasses at a cost of $50. Or, for $65 more, he suggests adding a flash mirror coating to the back of the lenses to cut glare and enhance depth perception.

Temple of the Sun A chevron pattern fires up a temple. Michael Kors style MK 18332 for CXD (Charmant Exclusive Division)

"By making this recommendation, the customer gets a fashion frame that performs double duty as a pair of high-functioning sunglasses. I benefit because I've turned a $150 plano sunwear sale into a $260 sale," he says.

SPORT BECOMES FASHION

Taking this double-duty concept even further, Obstfeld points out that a new up-and-coming sunwear look--the cylindrical lens frame--actually originated from sport sunwear manufacturers who wanted to develop a frame with full UV protection and exceptional fit. Now many designer branded lines are offering cylindrical frames, bringing its high functionality into the fashion mainstream.

"The appeal of sunglasses with cylindrical lenses is that they eliminate the 'bug-eyed look' so common with larger frames and they actually look smaller than they really are because they hug the perimeter of the face," says Obstfeld.

The gradient tinted/flash mirror trend is also expected to continue evolving throughout the year in gradient browns, taupes and blues.