HANDS ON - Fix and Fit
D.I.Y. Basic Repairs
by Alex Yoho, ABOM

as great as new dispensers may be in some areas, they often lack experience in the mechanical aspects of general repairs. By training them in the basics, you give them a leg up professionally and help keep your patrons happy.

Here's a rundown of tips for the novice repairperson.

The most common problem encountered by far is the loose or missing screw. The most basic thing to know with screws is which way they tighten and loosen.

A little saying that you probably heard at one time or another is "righty tighty, lefty loosy." This is pretty self explanatory. It means when you want to tighten a screw, you turn the screwdriver clockwise, or to the right. Conversely, when you want to loosen a screw, you turn counterclockwise, or to the left.

There are basically two types of screws. The most common is the slot-head screw, which, as its name implies, has a slot in the head for a standard flatblade screwdriver.

A close second is the Phillips, or crosshead screw which requires a screwdriver blade that looks like two flatblades fused to a cross shape and slightly pointed.

Some crosshead screws can be tightened with a flathead blade if one of the slots in the head spreads clear across the head.

A third might be a hex head screw that requires a wrench, but these are rare.

If you find yourself employed in an office with a good selection of various screws, you should try to use as close a match as possible to replace a lost screw.

This being said, there is a method that you may find easier.

Several manufacturers make screws with such names as Tap 'n Lock, Tap and Snap, etc. They are usually too long and are meant to be broken off to the correct length.

If a screw just keeps turning without tightening, you can use a screw with a larger-diameter threaded shank, which will restore the stripped threads. When you have tightened it, grip the screw close to the base and bend it over about 10 degrees, then back the opposite way until it snaps off. Now tighten once again. This should be a permanent repair since most of these types of screws have a sealant on the threads that locks it and prevents it from backing out.

The screwdriver is designed to be held with the swivel top in the palm of your hand and turned with your fingers. You may see old pros, myself included, who learned to hold screwdrivers differently and ended up with a bad habit.

The most important good habit you can develop is to put the frame down on a bench block or the bench itself, so when the screwdriver slips off the screw it won't bury itself in your finger. You'd be surprised how reckless some of us old pros are—we haven't broken the habit yet of holding the frame in our hands.

When replacing a missing screw, it is important to use the correct size screw. There are gauges that will tell you what diameter screw to use by sticking various-sized wires into the screw hole. The vast majority of temple and eyewire screws are 1.4mm diameter, but don't take it for granted since you might needlessly tap a hole larger than it needs to be by putting in too large a screw.

Nose pads are generally replaced with relative ease, but there are many different types of fasteners that you may encounter.

The most prevalent types would be screw-on, which unscrew to remove; push-on, which snap into the pad arm and must be removed with a tool; and prima donna nose pads, which are set into place by hooking the bottom of the fastener and then rocking the top in until it clicks into place. These must be removed by cutting off the back of the fastener. Several other types of nose pads can be found on older frames, but these are rare unless you deal in vintage frames.

Pads should be changed when they become discolored. They might also be changed to improve comfort by increasing the size for heavier eyewear or made less obtrusive by using smaller nose pads on lighter-weight eyewear.

The softness of the nose pad really has little to do with the comfort on the nose. As long as the nose pad lays flat on the nose, it will be comfortable for the wearer. To this end, some manufacturers produce self-adjusting nose pads that lay flat on the nose regardless of the overall frame adjustment.

Temple tips often need replacing after an overzealous puppy gets done teething on them. There are other reasons of course, but this seems to be the main reason I hear. Also, if the temple tips are cracked and become hair catchers, they should be replaced.

You can often order exact replacements from the frame manufacturer. But patients may not want to wait, so stock a good supply of generic tips that lengthen and shorten.

Removing old tips can be frustrating. If a bit of heat in the bead pan won't loosen it up, use a pair of pliers that can crush the tip.

To apply new tips, prepare the temple core by making sure that any rough edges are filed off. Heat the metal core in the bead pan, start moving the tip on to the core until it resists, and then gently heat the tip in a frame warmer until it will slide the rest of the way on to the frame with relative ease.

Knowing these basic repairs will help any novice be of value to an office immediately.