Forever Favorites

Sometimes the best way to please people is by giving them their familiar favorites. A look at what makes a frame worth keeping on the board year after year

By Amy Spiezio

People may wear accessories, but they have relationships with their eyewear. “This is the only product that ends up smack in the middle of the face. So there's a real emotional function with this product category,” says Marchon design director Leslie Muller.

Fortunately, eyewear designers have hit on a number of styles whose relevance resonates. Some of these forever favorites may come in and out of high fashion, others are rediscovered and pulled from the archives for a second, third, or fourth moment in the optical spotlight; and still others are slightly updated with each generation to remain timely without losing their original voice.

THE ICONS

If one compares eyewear to clothing, there are frames that are white tee shirts, cashmere sweaters, and Italian loafers.

Certain eye shapes are universally appealing. The rounded oval “roval” shape, the P3 with its strawberry shape, the catseye, and the softened rectangle continue to work. “They're just appealing on the geometry of the human face,” Muller says.

The Perfect Reproduction

Oakley's Frogskin sunglass was launched originally in 1985 and enjoyed its time in the sun as one of the decade's signature looks. Running its course, the Frogskin retired only to be brought back in 2007. “We had a few key influencers that we worked with that asked for it. It was one of those ‘Wouldn't it be cool?’ conversations,” says eyewear brand manager Andy McSorley. So, when the son of Oakley founder James Jennard was working with the design team rummaging around in the archives and came across the original Frogskin injection molding tool, it was put to work and the line was reborn. The production of the collection has remained small as the company has kept the production limited to the original molding tool. “We are literally constrained to production of what we got out of that machine. It's like the 50s American cars that wander around in Cuba. It's all D.I.Y.; we literally can't make more than we are currently making. We could make a new tool, but that would go against the authenticity.” Keeping the collection limited, they started by releasing a new frame once a month based on the library of historical lenses and frame colors. Once that was exhausted, they started expanding into original finishes for the classic style by underground artists and athletes. McSorley notes, “It's not a huge revenue driver, but it's a fun project. We all have a passion for it.”

Tweaking was the key to creating the Alain Mikli AL0942 (top left). It was based on the model 5700 (bottom left), launched in 1999 and updated to provide technological improvements and to increase wearers' comfort. Top: Izod's classic from the 1980s, the 101, was just re-released at the end of 2009

“Unconsciously, people look for symmetry, they look for surfaces that are polished or smooth. People instinctively know what will look good on them for shape and geometry,” adds Marchon's Muller.

An example of that, Robert Marc style 509, was released in spring 2000, the second season of the collection. Over nearly 10 years, the style has proven to be a favorite and has been released in 26 colors.

“This modified bowtie sunglass was a fresh and distinct shape at the time of its release, and still has a wearability that has made it a longtime bestseller to this day,” says owner/designer Robert Marc. “It fits a cross-section of face sizes, from a petite to a slightly larger woman.”

The Oliver Peoples' P3 style, Riley, came out in early 2003. Inspired by the O'Malley frame that debuted in 1987 as part of the initial wholesale collection, the Riley remains the top Rx eyewear seller for Oliver Peoples. “The Riley really speaks to the intellectual aesthetic that Oliver Peoples is known for,” says company founder and creative director Larry Leight.

Designers may not plan for every frame to sell forever. But when it happens, it's rewarding all around.

“That's not an intention for us, we don't set out to design forever frames, but when it continues to resonate it's a pretty good feeling,” says Gai Gherardi, co-owner/designer of l.a. Eyeworks. “People feel they have written their signature with this eye-wear. It's the loveliest complement.”

THE REGENERATED

A style or brand that seems utterly specific to a certain time frame may actually come back into vogue as the fashion cycle runs its full course and what was popular returns to favor.

While some trend-pushing style leaders may hit the vintage shops, many want a retro look without actually having a older product.

The Carrera collection from Safilo has come back into the spotlight thanks to a growing love for all things 1980s. Notes Robin Scheer Ettinger, vice president of marketing, Safilo USA, “Vintage and retro styling has become very popular in the past several years. Carrera taps into that.”

This regeneration can have a two-fold impact on the day-to-day operations of a dispensary, she notes: “Carrera can meet two objectives for dispensers: 1) Bring in new and younger patients into the practice as they seek out the Carrera line, having recently been exposed to it; and 2) Bring back more mature patients who remember Carrera and enjoy being part of this retro resurgence.”

In the case of Pucci's rebirth as a Marchon brand, “It was really interesting because we had to decide what made the frames so popular when they first came out, and we kept the DNA,” Muller says.

In a careful balancing act of vintage and new, regenerated collections frequently revisit styles and reinterpret them in new materials, on different scales, in on-trend colors, and in shapes that re-interpret classic shapes.

Classic looks are updated with the addition of fresh color and pattern options. The Carrera, a signature look from the 1980s, gets a contemporary feeling thanks to a creamy matte finish (above). The Ray-Ban Wayfarer (below) continues to drive style with the new Rare Prints models. Looking traditional from the front, the New York City Subway map is printed on the interior

The Reliables

They aren't sexy, per se. They may not be the frames that go in the window or star in the displays. But some frames have been around seemingly forever and will be around for years to come. The sturdy double-bar ophthalmic in metal and plastic is one that has consistently appealed to men for several decades. And let's not forget the ladies. Generously sized, progressive-friendly b measurements, flattering colors, rounded shapes, and lightweight looks keep senior ladies coming back for styles such as Emma and Eva (shown below), two frames that have been a part of the ClearVision Collection since 1998. “While many trends have come and gone in the world of prescription eyewear, Emma and Eva been constants in the ClearVision collection because of their quality and value—two traits that never go out of style,” says ClearVision representative Andrew Miller.

THE CAREFUL TWEAKS

For a style to survive for more than 50 years, there is a good chance that there will be a few changes made— without losing a distinct look. The Ray-Ban Wayfarer, introduced in the 1950s, is a prime example of a style that has been very carefully adapted to keep up with the times.

“We were able to revive the interest in the style by making them up-to-date and always going to the next level,” says Maristella Brentani, vice president of product at Luxottica.

“They really are as stylish today as they were 50 years ago. They are always in the mind of the consumer. They are classical icons, they are easy to wear: not too big, not too small. They are familiar with the style, but we repurpose the style.”

The brands' managers have kept Wayfarers on trendsetters from the rock arenas to red carpets by blending the iconic frame shape with fresh details, such as color and patterns. But, the re-engineers are always certain to ensure that the Wayfarer is always the same. “It's not just the project, it's the story built around it,” Brentani says. “Every time we go to market and present the collection, we want extend the lifespan.”

Likewise for an even older style: the Aviator. While tweaking may ensue, the style stays recognizable.

Aviators have an advantage when it comes to timelessness, says Christophe Pillet, design director of Lacoste eyewear. “What makes these iconic products special is that they were designed for a particular function, not as a mere trend or to follow fashion. That is why they are and will remain timeless and contemporary.”

TIME FOR CHANGES?

While great design is timeless, sometimes it might be a little frustrating to sell the same people the same styles year after year. Part of the dispenser's job is to let eyewear consumers know that, “you might be able to have two beautiful styles,” l.a. Eyeworks' Gherardi recommends.

Classic styles can lure patients in, but good presentation skills can help ensure that eyewear wardrobes mix classics with contemporary designs.

As Marchon's Muller notes, “You can't bully someone into wearing a frame they don't feel comfortable in, but when presented with other options that flatter, they will walk away with another frame. EB