Echo Boom: Rimless Eyewear's Return

Offering customization, technological updates, and plenty of comfort to boot, three-piece mounts are proving a strong alternative to chunky acetate frames

By Amy Spiezio

All trends cool, and what was hot suddenly is not. But with a good basic design and the willingness to change with the times, what was a trend might become a staple with the potential to boom again.

At the turn of the 21st century, rimless was hot. New technology had created a screwless eyewear option that was strong and light and right in line with the minimalist trends of the day.

There's a direct parallel to jewelry, notes Marchon's Leslie Muller, vice president of design. “The 90s were minimalist, eyewear such as three-piece mounts went with diamond necklaces on clear cords.”

Today's style is brighter and more vibrant with styles in chunky metals and acetate creating statement eyewear pieces to compliment the statement necklaces that have captured the fashion imagination. But that doesn't mean rimless is gone. On the contrary, it's alive and well and can be seen all over. “It's a category we don't ignore and if anything it's going to get more attention,” Marchon's Muller adds.

“Rimless is never going to go off the board. If you take the most informal survey, the subway passengers, you will still see rimless,” says Cliff Robinson, owner of B. Robinson Eyewear.

Comprising about 15 percent of the average frameboard, frame experts note that rimless is an integral part of any complete collection. And the category keeps expanding.

PASSING ON PLASTIC

Chunky plastic may be dominating some segments of the fashion frame world, but it's not going to knock rimless off the boards. In fact, some are predicting that rimless is solidly coming back to prominence.

“There's going to be a rimless mini echo boom that will be an alternative choice for people who are tired of wearing all plastic or just want to switch to something lighter,” Marchon's Muller says.

“This specific construction is for those who are not about flaunting prescription eyeglasses like the heavy full rim geek-chic designs, and would rather opt for a simpler look with eyeglasses that are almost invisible on your face,” says Maristella Brentani, Luxottica's vice president of product strategy and line planning North America.

RESTYLING RIMLESS

Part of what is helping to expand rimless is that it covers all kinds of fashions and consumer tastes. “As simple as the overall frame styling is, there are many design trends happening,” says Dee Berghuys, director product and marketing for Charmant Group.

It's role as a fashion accessory can be as varied as the designers' imaginations. “People have a preconceived notion based on this past trend that rimless is invisible. Now they are more designed and more present. It's less classic, more minimalist and embracing more design,” Muller says.

■ COLOR KICKED UP. Three-piece mounts have been refreshed with injections of color. “It's a way to embrace color without it being on the face. If it's on the temples, it's easier to wear. Because it's rimless, you can go to extreme color that in a full frame would be a no-no,” says Silhouette's Kristen McLaughlin, marketing director.

“The hottest trend in rimless eyewear is the application of bold color. From two-toned titanium to electric hues found in our rubber temples, adding a splash of color takes a sophisticated look and makes it fun and energetic,” says David Spencer, founder/designer, Ogi Eyewear.

“Also, combining a plastic temple with the rimless front allows for an endless array of colors and print patterns to be used,” Berghuys says.

■ LUXE LOKS. The inherent elegance of rimless eyewear has made it a go-to style in the world of luxury. “There is quite a strong focus on rimless in the luxury segment where the precious temple material and decorations also become the center of attention, Brentani says.

“A lot of customers do not look at their eyewear as one pair fits all. The ultra crisp, elegant feel of rimless eyewear can be the perfect accompaniment to an upscale business attire,” Ogi's Spencer says.

Another factor driving rimless' comeback is customization, a luxury factor that appeals to generation X, Y, and baby boomers alike.

“The design options are really endless because the customers can truly create a ‘one of kind' frame for themselves by selecting different components and lens shape best suited for them,” observes Charmant's Berghuys.

TECHNOLOGY UPDATES

A final factor in rimless' longevity is its role as a tech testing ground when it comes to frame design. Rimless helps the the frame market solve persistent puzles of durability and keeping eyewear parts together.

“Rimless technology is really where a lot of technology in our business comes out,” Robinson says.

Rimless also lets other technology shine, such as lenses. In perfect timing with the lenses' current leaps forward, rimless focuses more on lens shapes and sizes for a cool look.

“There's so many options with high-quality, high-performing lenses,” McLaughlin says. “You can do endless things with rimless.” EB