Frame Materials Guide: In the Raw

A go-to guide to today's most used, most coveted, and most cutting-edge raw frame materials

By Erinn Morgan Photography by Peter Baker

Got pure titanium or carbon fiber? Maybe some copper beryllium, stainless steel, high-definition acetate, or castor seed?

The frame materials in your dispensary today are likely more unique than ever before. Some are luxurious or eco-conscious while others are ultra high-tech or unusual.

Explaining the features and benefits of the materials in the frames patients are considering grows their understanding of that product's value and builds their confidence in your knowledge as an ECP. Following is a guide to the key, as well as the up-and-coming, frame materials.

Zyl can be easily colored for crisp print reproductions. Image courtesy of Safilo Group

ZYL (PLASTIC/CELLULOSE ACETATE)

WHAT IT IS: A man-made material widely used for eyeglass frames, zyl is produced from the cotton plant substance cellulose, stabilizers, and plasticizers. It is either injection molded or block cut for frame manufacturing.

FEATURES & BENEFITS: Zyl is lightweight and easily colored and, thus, can be crafted with beautiful, unusual, and creative hues and prints.

DRAWBACKS: Plastic frames can break more easily than metal styles, plus aging and sun exposure can slightly decrease strength.

OTHER USES: Zyl is a film base in photography, an ingredient in some adhesives, and was used to make the original Legos in 1949.

NYLON

WHAT IT IS: A form of cellulose acetate called cellulose acetate propionate, nylon is often used for sports and performance sunwear.

FEATURES & BENEFITS: Flexible yet stiff, nylon is lightweight and strong. It is easily molded into wraparound styles. It is also hypoallergenic.

DRAWBACKS: This nylon-based plastic can be stiff and sometimes brittle. It also only takes simple, subdued colors.

OTHER USES: Cellulose acetate propionate is used for printing inks and in nail care products.

METAL ALLOYS

WHAT IT IS: A blend of metal materials, metal alloys such as monel are the most widely used frame material. Ticral is a commonly used blend of titanium, copper, and chrome. Beta titanium is an alloy of titanium, iron, chromium, cobalt, nickel, and other metals.

FEATURES & BENEFITS: Metal alloys are often corrosion-resistant and are typically malleable yet strong. Ticral is nickel-free, lightweight, strong, and more affordable than titanium.

DRAWBACKS: Metal alloys may not always be corrosion-resistant or hypoallergenic.

OTHER USES: Monel has been used in aircraft and experimental rocket plane construction; it is also used as a material for valve pistons in trumpets, tubas, and French horns.

Eyewear materials cover a wider range than ever before as technology for processing improves and new substances come into the market. Options from wood and horn to acetate, carbon fiber, and memory metals shape today's frames. (Flexon memory metal, above, courtesy of Marchon)

A new material from Mykita, mylon is a lightweight and adaptable polyamide-based substance that can be molded into any shape with a selective laser sintering process

NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK
Today there is a wide variety of materials in use for the manufacture of quality eyeglass and sunglass frames, but many of these have been in play for several years. According to industry experts, it is increasingly difficult to bring a brand new material into the marketplace. “It is tough to find a new material and apply it to eyewear,” says Leslie Muller, Marchon's vice president of design. “It's usually a long testing process to make sure no one develops allergies or that the material doesn't break after being exposed to UV light for a year.” Adds Muller, “In the future, new materials will be developed as a result of new design ideas, which is fantastic because innovative design is the compelling, driving force for why consumers want to buy something.” One new kid that has made it to the block is Mykita's Mylon. After a multi-year process to bring the material into the optical universe, Mykita has released its Mylon collection of luxury sports fashion sunwear for everyday or ski slope use. The polyamide-based material gets a patented surface finish that is fully adjustable to the wearers' features. Selective laser sintering, an additive manufacturing technique used to create three-dimensional structures, allows Mylon to be molded into any shape, such as the wood grains so popular in today's market. At Oakley, new combinations of traditional materials are the wave of the future. “The area we really see growing is hybrid frame constructions,” says Scott Betty, director of optics, who points to the company's Paperclip sunglass, which has a proprietary C5 metal alloy construction covered with Unobtainium (the rubber used for Oakley nosepads). While a new look at old materials is the focus du jour, most companies are striving to find new materials applicable to the optical industry. “New materials and new innovations of old materials are important for everybody,” says Safilo's Timm Parker, vice president of product design and development, who notes that the company's current foray is into more eco-friendly materials.

NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

Today there is a wide variety of materials in use for the manufacture of quality eyeglass and sunglass frames, but many of these have been in play for several years. According to industry experts, it is increasingly difficult to bring a brand new material into the marketplace.

“It is tough to find a new material and apply it to eyewear,” says Leslie Muller, Marchon's vice president of design. “It's usually a long testing process to make sure no one develops allergies or that the material doesn't break after being exposed to UV light for a year.”

Adds Muller, “In the future, new materials will be developed as a result of new design ideas, which is fantastic because innovative design is the compelling, driving force for why consumers want to buy something.”

One new kid that has made it to the block is Mykita's Mylon. After a multi-year process to bring the material into the optical universe, Mykita has released its Mylon collection of luxury sports fashion sunwear for everyday or ski slope use. The polyamide-based material gets a patented surface finish that is fully adjustable to the wearers' features. Selective laser sintering, an additive manufacturing technique used to create three-dimensional structures, allows Mylon to be molded into any shape, such as the wood grains so popular in today's market.

At Oakley, new combinations of traditional materials are the wave of the future.

“The area we really see growing is hybrid frame constructions,” says Scott Betty, director of optics, who points to the company's Paperclip sunglass, which has a proprietary C5 metal alloy construction covered with Unobtainium (the rubber used for Oakley nosepads).

While a new look at old materials is the focus du jour, most companies are striving to find new materials applicable to the optical industry.

“New materials and new innovations of old materials are important for everybody,” says Safilo's Timm Parker, vice president of product design and development, who notes that the company's current foray is into more eco-friendly materials.

TITANIUM

WHAT IT IS: Titanium is a high-tech, high-performance pure metal that is most commonly used in high-end frame manufacturing.

FEATURES & BENEFITS: Titanium has a host of benefits, including ultra-light weight, corrosion resistance, and strength. It is also a hypoallergenic metal.

DRAWBACKS: Titanium is one of the more expensive frame materials on the market today.

OTHER USES: Titanium is used widely for industrial, aerospace, and recreational markets for gear such as golf clubs.

STAINLESS STEEL

WHAT IT IS: A widely used metal in the manufacture of eyeglasses, stainless steel is an alloy of steel and chromium.

FEATURES & BENEFITS: Stainless steel is a lightweight metal and is also corrosion-resistant and generally hypoallergenic.

DRAWBACKS: While it is corrosion-resistant, stainless steel is not stain-proof.

OTHER USES: This metal is used in jewelry and watches. It is also used in the construction of bridges and monuments, such as the stainless-clad Saint Louis' Gateway Arch.

Green materials include recycled, organic, and sustainable products. Shown (from top) Eco from Modo, Drift Eyewear, Amy Sacks Eyewear

CARBON FIBER

WHAT IT IS: A high-tech material consisting of extremely thin fibers, composed mostly of carbon atoms, that are twisted together in a crystal alignment that is incredibly strong. Other materials are added to form a composite.

FEATURES & BENEFITS: Carbon fiber is very lightweight, highly flexible, strong, and durable.

DRAWBACKS: This material can be quite expensive.

OTHER USES: Carbon fiber is a very popular and sought-after material for aerospace, civil engineering, and military applications. It is also coveted as a lightweight, strong material in motorsports as well as other high-performance, competition sports.

COPPER BERYLLIUM

WHAT IT IS: A strong, lightweight, and sometimes brittle earth element, beryllium occurs naturally in gem-stones such as aquamarines and emeralds. When combined with copper, it forms a very strong alloy. This material is used sparingly in the optical industry but works well when a highly polished metal finish is sought after.

FEATURES & BENEFITS: Copper beryllium is very strong and boasts excellent metalworking and machining abilities.

DRAWBACKS: While copper beryllium presents no known health hazard, beryllium compounds are toxic and, thus, difficult to work with in manufacturing.

OTHER USES: This material is used in musical instruments, such as tambourines and triangles, golf clubs, and armor-piercing bullets.

ALUMINUM

WHAT IT IS: The most abundant metal in the earth's crust, aluminum is a lightweight option for eyeglass frames. It is the most widely used non-ferrous metal in the world.

FEATURES & BENEFITS: In addition to its light weight, aluminum is also highly corrosion-resistant, soft, and durable. Aluminum is also 100 percent recyclable.

DRAWBACKS: Aluminum can bend and be slightly less durable than other materials.

OTHER USES: Beyond foil and beverage cans, aluminum is used in the manufacture of automobiles, aircraft, bikes, ships' masts, street light poles, and outer shells for consumer electronics. Powdered aluminum is used in paints because it retains its silver color.

Metals mix with leather, acetate, and rubber for sport/style. Above: Nike by Marchon, below: Tag Heuer from Premiere Eyewear

UP GREENING
Both large and small frame manufacturers are looking to green up their frame materials and production methods. Acetate king, Mazzucchelli, recently launched a new material, M49 Bioplastic. A cellulose acetate produced from cotton and wood-pulp fibers and manufactured with a non-petroleum-based soy corn plasticizer, the new formula is expected to comprise 30 percent of Mazzucchelli's acetates in the next two years and 40 percent in the next five years. Notes Corrado Brustio, Mazzucchelli's marketing manager, “It's time for eco-friendly and sustainable products joined with high-tech solutions.” Some are putting the onus on eco-friendly materials such as FSC-certified wood (Forest Stewardship Council), castor seed-based injections, and bamboo. “Our big push is in eco-friendly materials,” says Timm Parker, vice president of product design and development at Safilo. “Petroleum-derived plastics are simply not great for the environment.” As such, Safilo has brought a few styles into its lines that are crafted of a new material made from castor seeds, a highly renewable natural resource that grows four to six crops each year. “Castor oil is a legitimate alternative to crude oil-based plastics because the castor plant does not compete with food crops and can be planted in places where other plants cannot grow,” notes John Sanchez, vice president of product development at Zeal. The new eyewear launch from Zeal features Z Resin, also a castor bean-based material. At Revo, the new material Eco-Use, a lightweight, flexible nylon frame material also made from the seed of the castor bean plant, is being put into play in many sunglass styles. In high fashion, Stella McCartney's spring sun collection from Luxottica will be constructed from a bioacetate. Modo's ECO eyewear line uses recycled stainless steel and plastic in its manufacture. There is as much as 95 percent recycled content in each frame, a claim that is verified by the Environmental Claims Validation (ECV) from UL Environment (ULE), a subsidiary of Underwriters Laboratories (UL), a world leader in rigorous, independent, third-party product evaluation. Sustainably harvested woods are also making a big splash in the optical industry via eyewear collections focused on eco consciousness. Both Drift eyewear and iwood ecodesign employ woods eco-certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). Bamboo, also a highly renewable plant resource, is featured in some temples of Amy Sacks Eyewear.

UP GREENING

Both large and small frame manufacturers are looking to green up their frame materials and production methods. Acetate king, Mazzucchelli, recently launched a new material, M49 Bioplastic. A cellulose acetate produced from cotton and wood-pulp fibers and manufactured with a non-petroleum-based soy corn plasticizer, the new formula is expected to comprise 30 percent of Mazzucchelli's acetates in the next two years and 40 percent in the next five years. Notes Corrado Brustio, Mazzucchelli's marketing manager, “It's time for eco-friendly and sustainable products joined with high-tech solutions.”

Some are putting the onus on eco-friendly materials such as FSC-certified wood (Forest Stewardship Council), castor seed-based injections, and bamboo. “Our big push is in eco-friendly materials,” says Timm Parker, vice president of product design and development at Safilo. “Petroleum-derived plastics are simply not great for the environment.” As such, Safilo has brought a few styles into its lines that are crafted of a new material made from castor seeds, a highly renewable natural resource that grows four to six crops each year. “Castor oil is a legitimate alternative to crude oil-based plastics because the castor plant does not compete with food crops and can be planted in places where other plants cannot grow,” notes John Sanchez, vice president of product development at Zeal. The new eyewear launch from Zeal features Z Resin, also a castor bean-based material. At Revo, the new material Eco-Use, a lightweight, flexible nylon frame material also made from the seed of the castor bean plant, is being put into play in many sunglass styles. In high fashion, Stella McCartney's spring sun collection from Luxottica will be constructed from a bioacetate.

Modo's ECO eyewear line uses recycled stainless steel and plastic in its manufacture. There is as much as 95 percent recycled content in each frame, a claim that is verified by the Environmental Claims Validation (ECV) from UL Environment (ULE), a subsidiary of Underwriters Laboratories (UL), a world leader in rigorous, independent, third-party product evaluation. Sustainably harvested woods are also making a big splash in the optical industry via eyewear collections focused on eco consciousness. Both Drift eyewear and iwood ecodesign employ woods eco-certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). Bamboo, also a highly renewable plant resource, is featured in some temples of Amy Sacks Eyewear.

RAW & RARE
A quick rundown of a few of the more exotic and unusual materials used in the eye-wear arena. GOLD: Dense and shiny, gold is the most malleable metal on the planet. Because of its high cost, it is used sparingly in the manufacture of eyeglass frames. Worked into stunning silhouettes in some high-end eyewear collections, it is also used in more moderately-priced lines as an accent or plating. BUFFALO HORN: A renewable resource, horn provides a rich, multi-toned material for luxury frames. It is also a comfortable eyeglass material because it warms to body temperature when worn. Buffalo horn frames are most often hand-made, one-of-a-kind pieces. MAGNESIUM: This alkaline earth metal is extremely lightweight and strong. A rare material in the optical market, magnesium is currently being used by Oakley in its Switch performance eyewear, which company representatives say is the first ophthalmic frame made of magnesium encased in a ceramic polymer. NXT: Originally used as a lens material, NXT from Intercast/PPG has made the jump into frame design. This next-generation polymer, which was originally developed for use in the U.S. military, is now available in 2.00mm sheets that are being used for the manufacture of eyeglass frames such as Steffan Preutz's sleek looks for Preutz Design. “It is remarkably thin and lightweight,” says Blake Kuwahara, designer and president of Focus Group West, a design firm. “It imparts a very modern, architectural feel to the end product that is a welcome relief to all of the chunky acetate frames of late. It's trickier to work with but gives a fresh take to eyewear. An added bonus is that it can be tinted and mirror coated like a lens.” HAIR: Yes, you read that right. Operating under the name Studio Swine (studioswine.com), two graduate students from London's Royal College of Art recently designed a collection called Hair Glasses. This line of biodegradable eyewear utilizes human hair with bioresin as a binding agent.

RAW & RARE

A quick rundown of a few of the more exotic and unusual materials used in the eye-wear arena.

GOLD: Dense and shiny, gold is the most malleable metal on the planet. Because of its high cost, it is used sparingly in the manufacture of eyeglass frames. Worked into stunning silhouettes in some high-end eyewear collections, it is also used in more moderately-priced lines as an accent or plating.

BUFFALO HORN: A renewable resource, horn provides a rich, multi-toned material for luxury frames. It is also a comfortable eyeglass material because it warms to body temperature when worn. Buffalo horn frames are most often hand-made, one-of-a-kind pieces.

MAGNESIUM: This alkaline earth metal is extremely lightweight and strong. A rare material in the optical market, magnesium is currently being used by Oakley in its Switch performance eyewear, which company representatives say is the first ophthalmic frame made of magnesium encased in a ceramic polymer.

NXT: Originally used as a lens material, NXT from Intercast/PPG has made the jump into frame design. This next-generation polymer, which was originally developed for use in the U.S. military, is now available in 2.00mm sheets that are being used for the manufacture of eyeglass frames such as Steffan Preutz's sleek looks for Preutz Design. “It is remarkably thin and lightweight,” says Blake Kuwahara, designer and president of Focus Group West, a design firm. “It imparts a very modern, architectural feel to the end product that is a welcome relief to all of the chunky acetate frames of late. It's trickier to work with but gives a fresh take to eyewear. An added bonus is that it can be tinted and mirror coated like a lens.”

HAIR: Yes, you read that right. Operating under the name Studio Swine (studioswine.com), two graduate students from London's Royal College of Art recently designed a collection called Hair Glasses. This line of biodegradable eyewear utilizes human hair with bioresin as a binding agent.

MEMORY METAL

WHAT IT IS: Memory metals are shape-memory alloys that resort back to their original shape, even when bent. The most common memory alloys are copper/zinc/aluminum/nickel, copper/aluminum/nickel, and nickel/titanium. A few optical industry examples include Marchon's Flexon and Safilo's Flex-O-Light.

“For our memory metal, Flex-O-Light, it is the combination of materials and the specific heating process [specific temperature in a special vacuum oven] during production that allow the material to have the memory,” says Safilo's Timm Parker, vice president of product design.

FEATURES & BENEFITS: Shape-memory metal alloys “remember” their original shape, even when bent with the rigors of daily eyeglass wear.

DRAWBACKS: Memory metals can be more expensive than more commonly used metal alloys.

OTHER USES: Shape-memory alloys have been used to reduce aircraft engine noise. They are also used in robotics, orthopedic surgery, and dental braces. EB

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Frame Materials Guide: In the Raw

Frame Materials Guide: In the Raw

A go-to guide to today's most used, most coveted, and most cutting-edge raw frame materials