Putting on the Glitz

How makeup and eyewear can peacefully—and beautifully—coexist

By Erinn Morgan

If approached in an educated and healthy way, eyeglasses and makeup can have a mutually beneficial relationship. “When it's done well, there's nothing more beautiful than eyeglasses and a beautifully made-up eye,” says Gai Gherardi, co-owner/co-designer, l.a.Eyeworks. “It's like framing a lovely picture.”

The key to reaching a beautiful optical and aesthetic outcome is to properly pair makeup with eyewear. Eyecare professionals can help their makeup-wearing clients successfully embrace wearing eyeglasses by providing some targeted tips on everything from color selection to proper application.

MAKEUP CHALLENGES

Several concerns apply to eyeglass wearers who wear makeup. “The challenge is to be sure not to overwhelm the face,” says Selima Salaun, owner of SelimaOptique, which has eight locations in New York, Los Angeles, as well as Paris.

Other issues include the fact that makeup can get on eyeglass lenses and those wearers prone to oily skin can end up with smudges in their makeup from nosepads.

According to Kimara Ahnert, a makeup artist with her own makeup line, a New York City studio, and a client list that includes Catherine Zeta Jones, Brooke Shields, Christie Brinkley, and Isabella Rossellini, another concern is that “near-sighted wearers eyes usually look smaller behind glasses while far-sighted prescriptions can make the eyes appear larger.” She adds that glasses also can cast a dark shadow underneath the eye adding or emphasizing dark circles.

Eyeglass colors and makeup selections can blend beautifully. Above, Selima Optique style Benoit. Image courtesy of Selima Optique

Makeup artist Susmta Patel, above, notes that more dramatic eyewear calls for more subtle eye makeup

Waterproof and smudgeproof cosmetics work best under glasses, notes makeup artist Kimara Ahnert, above

MAKING IT BEAUTIFUL

Despite the hurdles, makeup and eyewear experts agree that makeup can work beautifully with eyeglasses. The best products to pair with spectacles? The lineup includes cream-based eyeshadows, smudge-proof liners and foundations, waterproof mascaras, plus mineral-based powders and blushes. “Keeping the makeup simple is key,” says Ahnert. “Don't load up just to compensate for the glasses; this is actually counterproductive.”

DEFINE & CURL: Ahnert suggests eyeglass wearers focus on emphasizing the lower lash line as opposed to upper lashes. “Glasses tend to cut off at the lash line and too much mascara will rub off on the glasses,” she says. “You can even apply faux lashes to your lower lash line to emphasize it.” She also says that curling lashes will help keep them from touching (and smudging) glasses.

CONSIDER THE FRAME: Makeup can work with both less-visible rimless frames as well as bolder, chunky plastic “statement” frames, but the approach will be different with each.

“If you have rimless glasses, wear a brighter eye-shadow to add color and pop,” says Ahnert. “If you have colored frames, keep the eyeshadow neutral to muted as to not compete with the eyewear.”

Makeup artist Susmta Patel, who has consulted for beauty giants such as Lancome and Clinique, agrees. “The thicker your frame, the more subdued your makeup should be,” she says.

COMPLEMENT SKIN TONE: Instead of considering whether makeup colors should complement or contrast with frame colors, experts say it's more important for makeup to work with the wearer's skin tone.

“Choose eyeglasses that accent your look,” says Ahnert. “If your glasses make your eyes appear smaller, use a brighter eye-shadow with a dark liner on the top lid. If your glasses magnify your eyes, opt for a darker shade on your lid to counteract this.”

DON'T FLAKE OUT: Certain makeup products, such as foundation, run the risk of greasing up eyeglass lenses. “If you apply any cream product, cover the area with matte finishing powder to keep your makeup on for the full day,” says Patel.

Ahnert suggests, “It's also important to use cream-based eyeshadow instead of powder, which can flake and stick to the glasses.”

MINIMIZE MAGNIFICATION: One of the best investments spectacled makeup wearers can make is in good eye cream. “With eyeglasses, you are wearing a magnifying glass around your eyes, which draws more attention to fine lines,” Patel says. “Eye cream with serum will help you minimize the appearance of fine lines plus your concealer, along with your makeup, will go on smoothly.”

Lens features like AR coating can also help ward off magnification and glare on the eyes. “The combination of a perfectly fitted frame with a very good anti-reflective lens coating is key to minimizing almost all problems,” says Tarlan Ghavami, manager/optician at l.a.Eyeworks on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles.

Notes Ahnert: “Eyeglasses can accentuate eye makeup and can act as a great accessory to complete a look.” EB

MAKEUP & EYE HEALTH

Elise Brisco, OD, combines technology with a holistic approach at her Los Angeles-based Hollywood Vision Center practice, which also houses an acupuncturist and chiropractor. Operating since 1919, this eyecare practice has served royalty of the silver screen, including one Hollywood-honed former U.S. president. Brisco suggests a holistic approach to looking good. “Makeup can make your eyes look beautiful, but beauty begins with healthy living,” she says. “Eat lots of foods with essential fatty acids such as avacados and walnuts. This keeps your eyes white and bright.” Here, she provides insights on how makeup can affect eye health. Q: How can makeup affect eye health? A: If it's bad makeup, it can cause irritation and infection. A lot of people don't realize that liquid-based makeup needs to be replaced every six months. In addition, heat destroys makeup because bacteria gets in there—and a lot of people keep their makeup in the car where it gets hot. Some people also try to extend the life of their makeup by licking it. This is a huge no-no! They are likely to get an eye infection from this. Q: What else should makeup wearers do to protect their eyes? A: Remove all makeup before going to bed because this is another place for bacteria to get to work. I also recommend taking off contact lenses even if they are extended wear. If you do choose to sleep in them, use lubricating drops. Q: What measures should you take with makeup if an eye infection occurs? A: If you have an eye infection you need to discard all your cream-based or liquid makeup. That bacteria is also living in your makeup. Powder makeup is okay as are lip or eye pencils; simply shave off the top of them and use it because it's dry. Q: Can makeup corrode or otherwise affect eyeglass frames? A: Facial oils and lotions can tarnish frames and even eat away at the zyl or metal. I always recommend high-quality frames and using high-quality (and natural) makeup and skincare products.