Springtime for Rimless
Why this minimalistic eyewear category is in full bloom
By Erinn Morgan Photography by Peter Baker.
Clockwise from left: Roberto Cavalli style Stilla 783S from Marcolin, Tommy Bahama style On the Rocks TB6030; Ray-Ban style RB 8312 from Luxottica; Silhouette Titan style 8138; Maui Jim style Nakalele MJ-527
Once on the cutting edge, rimless and semi-rimless eyewear became a basic staple in the dispensary as a result of sales success. Though today’s chunky retro eyewear trends have eaten into rimless sales of late, rimless styling—amped up with a fresh injection of fashion plus new, higher-tech design to tempt patients—is making a strong comeback.
“Rimless eyewear is one of our biggest sellers,” says Karen Saucer-man, optician and frame buyer at Apple Valley Optometry in Apple Valley, CA. “A lot of people love the lightness of it and the fact that the frame can be used over and over.” Saucerman adds that rimless accounts for about 30 to 40 percent of all their eyewear sales. “We sell a minimum of four rimless frames each day. The bold, chunky look that’s become popular has not affected rimless sales here at all.”
Though the plastic retro trend in eyewear has not dipped into rimless sales at this location, other ECPs say they have seen an effect.
“We’re not selling as many rimless styles as two to three years ago, but we are still selling a ton of rimless frames,” says Bill Curran, owner of William Curran & Son, located in Drexel Hill, PA, who says that rimless frames account for a whopping 70 percent of all eyewear sales. “More than 90 percent of people who wear rimless come back for another rimless frame. Rimless is an easy sale.”
Ogi Evolution style 5503 (top); Lindberg style No. 015
THE RIMLESS REALITY
How much rimless eyewear do is sold in the dispensary today? While locations such as William Curran & Son top the charts with rimless accounting for an impressive 70 percent of all sales, the Eyecare Business Signet study found that 52 percent of ECPs said rimless accounted for between one and 10 percent, and 27 percent said it made up between 11 and 20 percent of total sales. A full 13 percent said rimless accounted for more than 20 percent of their overall sales.
Still, some eyewear dispensers say there is room for much more.
“About 35 percent of our customers walk out the door with rimless eyewear, and we’re trying to get that number up to 50 percent,” says Bob Martinez, owner and optician at Palo Alto Eyeworks in Palo Alto, CA.
This goal flies in the face of a wave of bolder, chunky, retro plastics that have proliferated in the market of late. But some point to the fact that the chunky look is a trend while rimless is a true classic that is here to stay.
“Some customers end up getting a big, heavy, clunky frame, but after a while it’s slipping down and uncomfortable,” observes Curran. “One reason rimless has lasted so long is comfort. So now I suggest that big, chunky plastic [frame], plus a more comfortable everyday rimless pair. It’s a great way to lead into a second-pair sale.”
Clockwise from top: Tura’s Elegance style TE216; Marchon’s Nine West style NW1030; Kenmark’s Vera Wang style Melita
(l to r) Viva’s Harley-Davidson style HD469; Kenmark’s Dana Buchman style Dara; McGee’s Totally Rimless Boutique style ROS; ClearVision Optical’s Marc Ecko style Shear Genius
POSITIONING FOR GROWTH
With rimless perfectly poised for new growth—and with lens companies like Hoya Vision Care and its Hoya DF uniquely mounted frame/lens package getting into the game, too—ECPs can help optimize the category’s potential by merchandising and presenting it properly.
“We have the big display kiosks with all trays from Silhouette,” says Curran. “It houses all the different collections and every shelf has a different design on it. They are really nice because you can grab a shelf and easily bring it over to the fitting table. The display also attracts people when they come into the dispensary.”
At Lesnick Optical in Detroit, where much of the rimless assortment consists of eyewear manufacturers’ house brands, the dispensary features a separate display space for rimless eyewear. “We delegate an entire board to rimless frames,” says Sandy Lesnick, who also operates Belleville Vision Center and VisionPro Eyecare in the Detroit metro area. “Our average retail price on a rimless frame is about $150.”
At Palo Alto Eyeworks, rimless is also displayed front and center in the storefront windows. “We show off our rimless sunglasses in the window as well,” says Martinez.
| An Inside View |
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Rimless eyewear is a category on the move, with new directions in fashion and technology keeping things interesting. For a closer look at what’s going on with the production side of the rimless world, Eyecare Business checked in with Kristen McLaughlin, brand marketing director at Silhouette, the rimless eyewear powerhouse. EB: How significant is the rimless category in optical dispensaries today? Kristen McLaughlin: Some ECPs would say it’s 10 to 15 percent of sales, while others are doing 25 percent. One eyecare professional in Connecticut is now selling 70 percent rimless eyewear. EB: What are the opportunities for more growth for rimless eyewear in the coming years? McLaughlin: Rimless growth will follow today’s growing trend for minimalism in apparel, home décor, and technology, revealing clean lines and pure style. In addition, rimless designs now are more modern, colorful, and customizable, focusing on a younger wearer. For years, people had the mindset that rimless was for a more mature wearer, and now there’s more focus on stylish features, and that lends an opportunity. EB: What technology features are driving rimless eyewear sales? McLaughlin: We’ve spearheaded key innovations in rimless eyewear without screws. This eyewear is also hingeless and lightweight. The materials we use—high tech titanium and our own proprietary SPX material—support new techniques in design and functionality. EB: Who is the rimless customer and why does rimless eyewear appeal to this individual? McLaughlin: Because of the customizable nature (lens shape, treatments, etc.) of Silhouette rimless, it’s universal in who can wear it—any age, any style—and add a personal touch. Rimless eyewear is perfect also for those who wear glasses on a daily basis from the moment they wake up to the moment they go to bed. What else could be so comfortable and so light on the face? |
Clockwise from left: Vivid style 207; Westgroupe’s Fysh style 3486; Match’s Adrienne Vitadini style AV1100
PRESENTING RIMLESS
How do veterans of the rimless category present this option to customers? Some ECPs choose to offer rimless eyewear as an option to everyone.
“Generally, it’s the first frame we show to everyone,” says Curran. “If they say they want a big, chunky plastic frame, I say, ‘Let me show you this, too,’ and I leave the rimless frames on the table. Quite often, after they try on big, chunky plastics and metals, they then try on the rimless again and they change their mind.”
Others present rimless as an option in an array of eyewear selections. “We talk to customers first and ask if they’re interested in the new, bolder look or something that disappears on the face a bit,” says Lonnie Burrow, owner of the high-end Burrow Optical in Little Rock, AR. “Usually, we incorporate both into the first selection because we try to give them a choice because sometimes they’ll choose to buy both for different occasions.”
Clockwise from top left: Morel’s Koali style 7193k; Alexander style Avery from A&A Optical; Chloe style CL06S from Marchon
RIMLESS OUTLOOK
Occasionally, however, rimless may not be the right choice for certain customers. “Some people have high prescriptions that will exaggerate the thickness of the lens in rimless eyewear and we don’t recommend rimless for that patient,” says Lesnick.
In the end, rimless eyewear is still an excellent choice for a wide variety of patients, from those wanting a more conservative, invisible look to those seeking out a more modern, fashion-driven style.
“It’s just amazing that rimless eyewear has been for around so long, but it’s the comfort factor, plus they always look great on everyone,” says Curran. “I have no doubt that rimless is going to be around for the future.” EB
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