FIRST PERSON

5 Questions for…

Roberto Vedovotto, CEO of Kering Eyewear

Roberto Vedovotto

As the CEO of the newly formed Kering Eyewear, Roberto Vedovotto has a luxurious path in front of him. Reporting directly to luxury powerhouse Kering’s CEO François-Henri Pinault, Vedovotto is leading a strategic initiative aimed at building an in-house eyewear platform for all luxury and sports eyewear brands in the group.

But Vedovotto is no stranger to high-end eyewear. Prior to joining Kering, he was twice CEO of Safilo Group, where he was responsible for restructuring the organization and its listing on the stock exchange, plus growing the company into a multinational enterprise.

Here, we sit down with Vedovotto to learn more about Kering’s plans and initiatives.

EB: What is your plan for unrolling Kering Eyewear worldwide and, more specifically, in the U.S.?

RV: Kering Eyewear is approaching the market with a sales model more similar to the fashion industry compared to [what has been] used for this category in the past. We have already established a direct presence through subsidiaries in nine key countries and set up agreements with a network of highly selected distributors in those countries where we do not want to have a direct presence at the moment.

Retail will be managed through Kering brands’ directly operated stores, while wholesale distribution will be handled through specialized independent opticians, national and international chains, department stores, travel retailers, e-tailers, and brand franchisees.

The U.S. is the largest market for eyewear and is, consequently, a strategic market for Kering Eyewear. We will serve the market directly, and we are currently setting up a stunning showroom [on] Broadway [in Manhattan], while operations are already established in Bridgewater, N.J.

EB: In terms of manufacturing, is Kering planning to own/run its own factories?

RV: Kering Eyewear does not own factories. Having the freedom to work with the best manufacturers in the market according to our brands’ needs, thus ensuring flexibility and the highest quality standards, is the strategic choice of our business model. We will partner with top producers in Italy and Japan in order to consistently deliver outstanding products.

EB: For eyecare professionals who currently sell Kering brands, can you provide information about how they can keep carrying those brands once the transition to Kering Eyewear is complete?

RV: We are honored and excited to welcome the loyal customers of the Kering brands to Kering Eyewear. From January 2016, our brand ambassadors will start covering the markets and implementing our distribution strategy. Those customers who are interested in continuing to represent our brands are encouraged to contact Kering Eyewear to learn more about our approach.

Our project is based on a long-term partnership with the trade, and we will provide all the necessary support for this transition, making sure that we will always deliver the best customer service in the industry.

EB: What do you think will be the biggest opportunity for U.S. eyecare providers in working with Kering?

RV: The biggest opportunity in working with Kering Eyewear is being able to work directly with our brands without an intermediary. Since the category has been brought in-house with the creation of our new company, we are committed to providing the best product on the market, which is now totally aligned with our brands’ DNA.

EB: How will Kering Eyewear influence and change the way the optical industry operates?

RV: By bringing all licenses back in-house we will be able to further invest in our brands, take full control over the value chain, innovate the selective distribution approach to markets, and maximize synergies within the Group from both a product development and a commercial standpoint, empowering Kering brands to go beyond their limits.

The Renaissance Villa in Padova, Italy, headquarters of Kering Eyewear

Eyewear is already a fundamental accessory, but we are aiming at making it core for our brands, even more strategically relevant and aspirationally key for our final consumers.