Focus: LUXE

10/10 Optics, New York, NY

RUTH DOMBER, optician and co-owner

This premium location in the tony Flatiron District in Manhattan has focused on luxury since opening in 1979. “Today,” explains co-owner Ruth Domber, “being in the luxury marketplace means getting involved in the artisan end of eyewear. That’s what drives today’s luxury market.

“To make it work,” adds Domber, “you need a staff that is trained to sell and you need to pinpoint the right person for the right frame. You can’t do that by buying just a few pieces. If you don’t know what you’re doing, then stay away from luxury.

“This isn’t a tapas tasting,” she says. “You need to buy deep because you can’t represent a collection with just five pieces. You need no fewer than 24 pieces to represent it.”

But it’s not just about working with frames, stresses Domber. “I really like working with the artists who create them,” she says. “I don’t just want frames that are attractive. I want frames from artists who have visions with styles, designs, materials, etc.”

But, she adds, even this focus works only if your staff is trained to deliver the product in the proper way.

Focus: HIGH-END

European Optical, Laguna Beach, CA

ASTRID CHITAMUN, optician and owner

Surrounded by water on three sides, European Optical’s exclusive South Coast Highway setting in Laguna Beach, CA, focuses on high-end frames.

Running a business founded by her father, owner Astrid Chitamun remembers checking frames in when she was in third grade. But, things have changed. European Optical is more upscale since she took over—with most frames at $300 and above.

“We are high-end, but you should always have something high-end even if you focus on lower price points,” she urges. “It helps you push the envelope and give clients more options.”

Talking about her inventory strategy, Chitamun says, “Before I buy, I first consider what line it might compete with in my store. I have an average of 50 frames per line. I think you need that many to really show it.”

Unfortunately, her optical shop experienced a horrific theft 10 years ago—but Chitamun made lemonade out of the lemons served to her. “It really cleaned us out, but it also gave me a chance to rethink everything,” she recalls. “I made a decision then that, because we’re an independent boutique, we should carry products from family-owned businesses that tell a story.

“So, when I look at lines now, I ask about the story—where it comes from, how it was designed, etc. When you tell the story, price doesn’t matter. Plus, people here are craving to support independent businesses.”

Focus: MID-RANGE

Griffin Optometric Group, San Clemente, CA

DENISE HURST, buyer

A frame buyer for 21 years, Denise Hurst says the average price for frames at Griffin Optometric Group’s three Orange County locations is $219.

Price point aside, she is actually buying for three distinct customer markets. “The downtown office carries beachy, casual eyewear,” explains Hurst, “whereas, only three miles away, our inland San Clemente location is more high-end and business-friendly. And the third location caters to a more mature crowd that is drawn to name brands.”

Despite the differences, Hurst stresses the importance of inventorying all price points at each location to compete with online shopping, while also featuring high-end and specialty lines to differentiate themselves. As for inventory, “We carry roughly 800 frames in each location. I feel 25-40 pieces is enough to make a statement about a line, and I usually try to order two colors in each style.”

When it comes to choosing a new line, she says, “I decide if there are enough good sellers in it, and then make sure the market near us isn’t saturated with the product.”

The bottom line? “I don’t want to carry frames that a patient can drive down the street and see elsewhere.”

TRENDS+TIPS

We asked all three of our buying experts what’s on trend in the high-end category right now—plus what you need to know about those trends. Here’s the scoop…

THE HIGH-END PRICING PIE

The inside line on total U.S. frame unit sales by dollar volume in all channels.