Nina Ricci for L'Amy introduced a clear shield with just a hint of color that produces an aurora borealis effect.

Beveled lenses, clear shields, snakeskin finishes, and plenty of color were among the hot trends seen at Silmo 2000 in Paris, France, which took place October 27 through 30. Fashion was very much the spotlight at the show with models strutting the trade floor everywhere wearing the very latest eyewear exhibitors had to offer.

he eyewear was seen by some 26,435 visitors who convened at the Porte de Versailles exhibition. Of the visitors who attended the event, 10,708 were from overseas, representing an increase of 8.4 percent over last year's numbers. And of the 960 exhibitors, 70 percent were from outside France. A highlight of the show was the seventh annual Grand Prix Silmo Awards. The ceremony took place at the Opera Garnier where approximately 2,000 guests enjoyed a performance by the National Ballet of Paris.

After the performance, the president of Silmo, Guy Charlot, announced the winners: Designer Frames-Mikli par Mikli from Mikli Diffusion; Technological Innovation for Eyewear- Biofeel from Comotec; Sunglasses-Kazuo Kawasaki MP69056 frame from Kooki Masunaga; Lenses-Varilux Panamic lenses from Essilor; Contact Lenses-Bifocal Acuvue from Vistakon; Sport Goggles-Water Jacket from Oakley; Equipment and tools-Activisu from IVS; Children's frames-Doudou 166 frame from Lafont; Instruments and Accessories-Vario Maxi magnifying reading glass from Eschenbach Optik; Environmental product-Airo from Eric Prost Diffusion.

Beveled lenses

While the awards ceremony showcased unusual design in every area from lenses to merchandising, there were frame trends evident on the exhibition floor as well. At Marcolin, the newest Chlo� signature frame featured rimless lenses with beveled edges. Gradient, two-tone matte color on the lenses exemplified the direction toward color. Another company that showcased beveled rimless frames was Mitani, with its new Takeo Kikuchi collection that's due to launch in the United States this spring.

Clear shields

Some manufacturers decided to take the rimless sunwear shield to the next level by showcasing clear rimless shields that offered UV protection with lenses that had just a hint of color. The iridescent color played on these clear shields much like an aurora borealis effect, flashing luminous greens, pinks, and blues around the eyes. The look was exemplified by Neostyle's new Missoni clear winged shield and L'Amy's Nina Ricci line, which also introduced a similar clear shield. This trend bears evidence to the fact that the lines between sunwear and ophthalmic continue to blur. And it begs the question, are these shields sunglasses, eyeglasses-or both?

	Sllhouette's booth on the exhibition floor, like many others, showcased the trending sunwear hues for 2001.

Morphed frames

Knowing both the aviator and shield are trending frame silhouettes, some manufacturers literally morphed these two frame styles together. For instance, at S�filo, both Gucci and Christian Dior featured frames that incorporated the bridge of an aviator on a rimless shield.

Other manufacturers used plastic instead of metal to give the aviator a fresh look. For example, Charmant's new C. Roth collection featured a bold zyl aviator with the added twist of low temples. It was similar to the updated aviator style that was the signature piece for Prada's new eyewear collection at DeRigo. Beausoleil also showcased a similar zyl aviator style.

In Hall 2 at Silmo, where the high-end manufacturers prevailed, big and bold looks continued to gain momentum. For example, London-based Cutler and Gross featured over-the-top glam frames that are almost a parody of the excessive shades that characterized the '80s. The collection is appropriately named Glamour. Nodding to the ostrich, crocodile, and snakeskin craze that is prevailing in leather accessories, manufacturers utilized these same finishes in frames. Lafont even had an upscale lorgnette collection in snakeskin with a suggested retail of $300. Diane Capt unveiled a collection in embossed ostrich leather-a material that Miuccia Prada popularized on the runways last year.

Color, color, color

Perhaps the most notable trend of all was the proliferation of color. The most fashion-forward colors were turquoise, apple green, orange, cranberry, and yellow. Many manufacturers displayed this color palette at their booths to convey the message that these are the trending hues for 2001. Most of these colors were featured in rimless eyewear. And once again, the tints were so light one wondered where the boundaries between sunwear and eyewear lay.

While colorful eyewear is clearly more accepted in Europe, some trends are truly global, like the rage for titanium as the metal of the moment. Vuarnet introduced a new titanium sunwear collection at the show and gave visitors a sneak preview of its new optical collection that will be launched in the United States this spring. Marchon gave visitors a peak at its new Nike line and Neostyle debuted its new Missoni eyewear collection that will also be rolled out in New York City at Vision Expo East.

	The exhibition floor in Porte de Versailles, Paris.

Technology and business

There was more to the show than just fashion, however. Silmo introduced a significantly expanded new technology area called Techno Hall, which showcased up-to-the minute technological advances in optical manufacturing. The hall included an international symposium on research and development in optics and eyewear. The symposium focused on future directions and research and prospects for further development in the fields of materials, components, and industrial processes.

In other technical news, Weco held a press conference to unveil its new Verifier Pro equipment, which enables optometrists to measure, center, and block lenses in one operating cycle. The device combines a centering and blocking device with some of the functions of a vertex refractometer. According to Weco, the Verifier Pro allows practitioners to save time while increasing accuracy when calculating the position and reference point of lenses.

In terms of business news, L'Amy held a press conference announcing that it had acquired a smaller French competitor, Lunettes Grasset and Associates. The acquired company employs 60 people and holds the European licenses and distribution for the brands DDP, Seiko Titanium, Agnes B., Guy Laroche, O'Marine, and Brendel. The two companies will remain distinct, but L'Amy reports that it will provide Grasset with its own support in the areas of technology, manufacturing, and marketing, as well as distribution.

Next year's Silmo show is slated to take place from October 19 through the 22nd at the Porte de Versailles exhibition hall once again. And if this year's event is any indication, it is sure to surprise and delight visitors with yet more future trends. EB