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Color Me Opulent

The Pantone color palette in vogue for fall takes an extravagant turn towards hues that exude affluence and lavish luxury

By: ERINN MORGAN
Eyecare Business September 1, 2004

Color Me Opulent
The Pantone color palette in vogue for fall takes an extravagant turn towards hues that exude affluence and lavish luxury
By Erinn Morgan

Some reviews of the fall fashion shows recount an "embarrassment of riches." Indeed, the fashion direction for the season is influenced by opulence and historical romance. Embellishment is the buzzword, from bows and fur to feathers and sequins. Punctuating the sumptuous feeling of the season is the hottest accessory for fall: Fur.

Available in every incarnation--including both real and faux--are capes, stoles, cuffs, and accents on dresses and suits. Dyed in the season's vintage palette, it lends Old World glamour to fall style.

The important hues of the season fall into step with fashion. Rich tones of blue, red, and brown color the best silhouettes.

According to the Pantone Fashion Color Report 2004, the array includes some of the following tones: Bright deep blue Limoges, Fall Leaf and earthy Pinecone taken from the forest floor, soft Aqua Gray and Fennel Seed, Camel, and Brit-influenced Sunset Purple and Crimson. Plus, pink continues its pull with Pale Mauve and Shocking Pink.

This palette is a cooling off from spring and summer's rambunctious hues, moving into more romantic colors. Fashion designers found their inspiration in the country--snowy New England, winter sports in Switzerland, and English country weekends. They also took hues from the Renaissance era--glorious tapestries, royal jewels, and wild animal skins.

"Fall 2004 sees color evolving in two different directions," says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director, Pantone Color Institute. "On one hand are vibrant classics; on the other, soft neutrals. The world is still a complex place, where we can choose to wrap ourselves in earthy comfort or have fun with the more energetic tones. It's a juxtaposition of these disparate color groups that drives the newness of the season."

Many accessories, including eyewear, follow fashion's footsteps this season. Accenting outfits in complementary or contrasting shades, sunwear and eyewear can complete a look.

Accessory designer Kate Spade sums it up: "As an accessory designer, I have the option to use a lot of color in my collections. People are less nervous about wearing accent colors. This gives me the freedom to use even the boldest of colors."

 

 

Designing Colors

The visionaries behind the styles speak out on their inspirations for fall hues.

Anna Sui: "For fall, I chose antiqued brights in bold combinations."

Max Azria for BCBG: "My color choices were inspired by gemstones in bold and daring combinations."

Michael Vollbracht for Bill Blass: "I was inspired by animal skins like cheetah, leopard, and sable."

Carolina Herrera: "I was inspired by winter sports at luxury resorts in the 1930s--skiing, ice skating, and sledding in Switzerland, and the warmth of the lodge après-ski."

Nicole Miller: "I used unexpected color mixes inspired by tapestries, wall hangings, and Victorian images, with a hint of military."

Nanette Lepore: "For fall, I used deep, rich, royal colors inspired by 18th century French costumes and lavish paintings from a wide range of periods."

Jill Stuart: "Antique jewelry inspired my collection."

Kimora Lee Simmons for Baby Phat: "My collection combines and marries lots of warm, feel-good colors."

Tracy Reese: "Inspired by Helena Rubinstein's book "Over the Top" and Elsa Schiaparelli's "Shocking" exhibit, I layered rich colors in unusual combinations--all with gold or antique gold accents."

 

Retailers Report

Top purveyors of fashion goods across the country share their own predictions for Fall 2004 color.

Jacqui Lividini, Saks Fifth Avenue

On Hues: "Color is extremely important for Fall 2004. With a more subdued palette than Spring, fall colors span icy pales to blackened and darkened jewel tones, with metallics and frosted colors, too. Fall fabrics are conducive to a more somber palette, yet there is still a lively and bright aspect to the colors for this season."

On Accessories: "This season's accessories must be colorful, regardless of what color you choose. There is an emphasis on luxury, a sense of luxe evidenced in upholstery and tapestries. Gold and silver threads, embroidery, jacquards, and velvets."

Joan Kaner, fashion director, Neiman Marcus

On Color: "Fall 2004 colors range from cream, camel, and cognac, to rich chocolate brown and mahogany, with an abundance of wine, plum, prune, and aubergine. So far, I am seeing less green than I had expected, but green with a yellow cast, like olive and chartreuse, could still be important."

Robert Burke, senior fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman

On Color: "Fall 2004 is about rich colors and textured fabrics, both with an English influence. Dark burgundies, purples, golden colors, and browns as well as textures like marls and tweeds."

On Accessories: "The fur trend continues this season from scarves and shrugs to fur-trimmed accessories. Natural and colored furs in dark burgundy, dark green, and plum come in astrakhan, fox, knitted mink, and rabbit."

 

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