fix and fit

Reconditioning a Vintage Frame

by Alex Yoho, ABOM

Once in a while you will have a customer who really wants to use an old vintage frame. The frame needs to look its best and, hopefully, like brand new.

METAL FRAMES

Vintage metal frames are usually gold or silver and fairly easily restored.

■ BUFFING LATHE. You will need a buffing lathe (preferably with a dust collector), several buffs to use, and several grades of buffing rouge.

Buffing rouge has a waxy base with grit, similar to the finest sandpaper grit you can imagine, blended in with the wax. This gives it a lubricated grinding effect when applied to a soft buff and produces a surface that ranges from a soft patina finish to a brilliant polish depending upon which rouge is used.

Experimentation is warranted for the beginner. If the buff grabs the frame, it can throw it across the room or even wrap it in a mangled knot around the buff.

If a frame has deep scratches, you will need to start with a rougher grit to blend the scratched area to the surrounding area. Use long strokes with light pressure along the face of the buff just below the center of the buff facing you.

■ ULTRASONIC CLEANING. Next, you should clean the frame impeccably in an ultrasonic cleaner, especially if you need to electroplate it to restore the color.

If you do electroplate the frame, try a pen plating kit which passes low voltage electricity through special chemical markers and allows you to draw the metal deposit wherever the marker touches the frame.

PLASTIC FRAMES

Restoring the finish on a plastic frame is similar to a metal frame except that you're working with a much softer material.

■ FINISHING. A vintage plastic frame will already be down to its finished shape, so you will only be removing a slight amount. As frames age, the plasticizers leach out, leaving a dull, grayish appearance. On the inside of the temples this may have gone so deep into the plastic that you won't want to remove it all due to stability issues.

■ SANDING. Instead of removing the scratches with a buffer, it's better to sand the plastic. If it is really rough, you can take just a few light swipes over the surface with 360-grit sandpaper. Follow with finer and finer grits. The best sandpaper is the daisy-shaped surfacing pads labs use for grinding lenses. Thanks to a sticky backing, the "petals" stick to your fingers for easier handling.

Follow this with long, light pressure on a buff with a good frame rouge, and you'll have the frame looking like new. EB

Handle with Care
Most of the plastic frames that have survived will be made of cellulose acetate, but there is a remote possibility you could encounter a cellulose nitrate frame. This type of frame will have a slight camphor smell when warmed in a salt pan. Be careful because these frames are extremely flammable and should be warmed with extreme caution.