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A Passion for Fashion, an Eye for Business

By: ERINN MORGAN
Eyecare Business July 1, 1999
MIDO '99
A Passion for Fashion, an Eye for Business
By Erinn Morgan
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There were new plastic colors and high-tech metal materials; new types of screwless hinges and shapes unlike any eyewear of recent memory.

The fashion was prevalent in many a corner of the MIDO '99 show, held May 7-10 in Milan. In fact, according to Paolo Cannicci, president of MIDO, this year the show unveiled more than 140,000 new eyewear and sunwear styles.

THE ITALIAN EYEWEAR INDUSTRY

Economic data for the year ending December 1998 indicated that Italy managed to maintain its market share in global eyewear sales, mainly due to the dynamic performance of large eyewear companies that offset the extensive losses incurred by small- and medium-sized companies.

In fact, according to ANFAO, the Italian optical industry association, "Large companies are flourishing, they show no signs of slowing down and are in a substantial growth phase... For all other companies, the scenario boils down to an uphill battle."

In the first three months of 1999, small- and medium-sized Italian companies suffered a 30 percent downturn in sales from the previous year. And, says ANFAO, "many now fear the situation may get even worse."

The economic situation is similar in other Italian industries, however, including textiles, clothing, tanning, and footwear. And many business leaders are urging the Italian government to take action.

Still, in the eyewear sector, the healthy large companies are tipping the scales back to normal. Overall eyewear production was up 3.1 percent in 1998 from 1997, and exports were up 2.4 percent. Imports rose from 455 to 497 billion (up 9.2 percent).

According to ANFAO, the "pride of place in exports was enjoyed by frames (up 5.2 percent over 1997), which fared exceptionally well in the United States, the leading market for Italian eyewear (10.7 percent of production).

But the real news of the show was much more serious. Many major eyewear companies made business announcements that continue to change the face of the optical industry.

Luxottica announced its purchase of Ray-Ban from Bausch & Lomb, as well as a recently signed license with Chanel.

Marcolin announced its preparation for listing on the Italian Stock Exchange and the fact that Dolce & Gabbana, which has a license with Marcolin for eyewear, has purchased a 6 percent stake in the company's capital. The company also signed a license with Roberto Cavalli for a line of sunwear and eyewear.

The MIDO show itself appeared to have a healthy attendance and business atmosphere. The show covered a total of 43,900 square meters, a 9 percent growth over last year. And more than 1,085 exhibitors from 34 countries filled up this space (a 10 percent increase over 1998). Most of the exhibitors came from European countries, including 512 from Italy.

FRAMES IN FASHION

There was something for everyone at MIDO '99. And the new trends were relatively abundant. Below is a list of some of the best and brightest trends spotted at the show.

Car Colors. Plastic frames are getting updated with colors that are reminiscent of new and old car colors. Shiny metallics and colors with a more subtle sheen are tweaking the look of thick zyl frames.

Amorphous Shapes. While the rectangle remains king of new frame shapes, it is getting updated in softer versions like the butterfly and teardrop shapes.

Bejeweled. Some companies (e.g., Sama) have incorporated jewels (semi-precious and fake alike) into eyewear on the temples, frame fronts, etc. Many are simple and sophisticated and give a whole new allure to frames.

Reading Lessons. Half-eyes showed up with much better design and coloring. Lafont had great colors in plastics like camouflage and laminated versions. And the category appears strong at point-of-sale, as many dispensers were asking for the best styles.

Mod. The future showed up in streamlined, modern shapes with minimal detailing in both eyewear and sunwear. Flash mirrors also added to the futuristic appeal on many sunwear styles.

Tinting. Tinted lenses in sunwear showed up all over the place in greens, purples, pinks, yellows, and oranges. Housing them in crystal frames was a favorite to highlight the lens colors.

Tech. As expected, technology continues to be a driving force in frame styling trends. Many new versions of screwless hinges appeared at the show and high-tech materials continue to take a front seat.

But this number was followed closely by American exhibitors and a large number of Asian exhibitors. According to Cannicci, "For the first time in 29 years, the foreign contingent outnumbers the national one."

The show's popularity was illustrated by stories from many exhibitors, who noted that it was difficult to garner space at this growing show, telling stories of waiting until two to three weeks prior to the show date to learn if they would get booth space.

MIDO officials said that expanded floor space this year made it possible for 138 first-time exhibitors to come to the show.

The number of foreign attendees also rose this year, but national attendance decreased marginally. "The number of Asian and American buyers is on the rise," says Cannicci.

Next year's show will take place at the Fiera Milano May 5-8. EB

     

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