COLOR REPORT

AN ALL-INCLUSIVE PALETTE

The big news in color this season is gender neutrality

BY LINDSEY GETZ

Earthy neutrals have dominated the fall fashion scene for quite some time and this season won’t be much different. While the latest warm, rich, earth tones provide a comfortable base, the designers’ use of bold color statements are adding interest and flair to the Fall 2015 runway. This season, designers are using that juxtaposition of classic and bold to create a compelling look. But perhaps most interesting of all is the crossover of colors. Gone are the days of “boy colors” and “girl colors.” The designers aren’t feeling confined by gender rules when it comes to the use of color in their designs.

Pantone’s snapshot of the latest color trends for the fall season offers a sneak peek of the coming season. Pantone, an X-Rite company, biannually surveys some of the hottest designers to report on their color selections. With neutrals once again taking center stage, the fashion conscious may be looking to punch up their look with edgy and colorful eyewear. It’s definitely about pairing neutral and bold, says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute (see interview with Eiseman on p. 80).

“Juxtaposition of color from opposite sides of the spectrum emphasizes poise and confidence on the runway,” she adds.

CLASSIC NEUTRALS

This season, one of the key neutrals in the spotlight is Desert Sage, a cool and soothing greenish-gray. Pantone describes it as “timeless” and “unobtrusive” as it will pair well with many other colors. However, it’s a strong enough neutral that it has interest of its own accord. Similar in tone is Dried Herb, an olive green, resembling the hue one might see in a safari or military uniform.

With the popularity of gray tones still at the forefront, it’s no surprise that Stormy Weather is also one of the top color choices this season. Reminiscent of the sky on a gray, overcast day, Stormy Weather is a powerful blue-gray tone. Like Desert Sage, it will pair well with other colors or of course there are some other neutral tones in the palette outside of the gray spectrum.

Oak Buff, a mellow golden-yellow, is a brighter neutral that gives off a warm, sunny feeling. Marsala, on the other hand, was a top pick in the Spring and has returned to bring its reddish brown hue into the fall fashion lineup.

THE TOP 10

DRIED HERB: An olive-green that is both sophisticated and chic, though reminiscent of military or safari style

DESERT SAGE: A greenish-gray that Pantone calls the “ideal neutral”

STORMY WEATHER: A blue-gray that is cool toned yet strong and powerful

OAK BUFF: A mellow golden yellow that brings feelings of warmth and the sun

MARSALA: A wine-inspired reddish brown that is both sophisticated and earthy

BISCAY BAY: A lush and elegant teal that evokes tropical waters

REFLECTING POND: A contemplative and composed dark blue

CADMIUM ORANGE: A warm and dramatic orange shade that evokes a sentiment of fun and fantasy

CASHMERE ROSE: A rich, gentle, and composed pink hue

AMETHYST ORCHID: A vibrant and sensual purple

BOLD BRIGHTS

Dressing up those classic neutrals this season are a number of bolder and brighter colors that add some visual pop. Cadmium Orange, for instance, is a warm but dramatic orange that is reminiscent of a Creamsicle popsicle. Cashmere Rose is a softer pink hue—a bit more muted than other pinks seen in past fashion trends. In fact, like many of the colors this year, Cashmere Rose is showing up equally in both men’s and women’s fashion this season.

For those who like purple hues, Amethyst Orchid is a beautiful shade that is both vibrant and enigmatic. Pantone describes it as “the jewel in the crown of the Fall 2015 palette.” The shade is bright and sexy, and again, showing up in both men’s and women’s fashion.

Rounding out some of the bolder hues this season are Biscay Bay and Reflecting Pond, which both fall into the blue spectrum. Biscay Bay is a cool teal which has undertones of both blue and green. This cool and confident tone evokes thoughts of soothing tropical waters. Reflecting Pond also brings blue to the table, but is a more serious and contemplative shade that is reminiscent of deep, dark waters.

A PERFECT PAIRING

This season the designers are pairing many of these bolds and neutrals to create an inspired look.

But Eiseman reports the greatest distinction in this season’s colors has been the evolution of a more gender-neutral color palette. In the past, colors have been more distinctly “masculine” or “feminine” but this season, more than ever, there has been a lot of crossover. Those in the fashion world see that trend only continuing.

It is likely that this trend will carry into frame selection as well. There will be continued interest in crossover styles that are popular among both genders.

“The Fall 2015 palette is rooted in multi-faceted and androgynous colors that can be worn to portray effortless sophistication across men’s and women’s fashion,” sums up Eiseman. “It is the first time we are seeing a truly unisex color palette.”

DESIGNER’S NOTEBOOK

Some of the fashion designers share their color inspiration

ALICE & TRIXIE

PROMINENT COLORS: Mixed berry tones such as Boysenberry, Wineberry, and Raspberry as well as Olive Drab, Teal, and shades of Blue. All of these tones can be found with accents of Honey, Cumin, and Black Onyx.

INSPIRATION: I go by my intuition on what looks and feels right in the moment. This season I was inspired by this amazing Persian rug that I saw in the Marché Clignancourt while traveling in Paris.

HOUGHTON

PROMINENT COLORS: Shitake, Marigold, Paprika, Navy, Army Green, Olive Camo, Bone, Black, and Stone Gray.

INSPIRATION: A feminine take on military and all-American references.

REBECCA MINKOFF

PROMINENT COLORS: Soft Cream, Deep Navy, Salmon, Pink over Black and Bordeaux Red, and Marigold Yellow over Dark Brown.

INSPIRATION: Patti Smith’s androgynous, rock-inspired style, and the bohemian culture of downtown New York in the late ’60s and early ’70s.

NICOLE MILLER

PROMINENT COLORS: Forest Green, Charcoal Gray with Coral Pink and Mustard Yellow highlights.

INSPIRATION: The show is outdoor themed—so colors come from nature.